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Jam On!

5.7, Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 12 votes
FA: Mike Rawdon
New York > Gunks > Peterskill > s. The Golden Wall

Description

Fun, slightly overhanging fist jam in corner.

Location

Same wall as Super Skink; to the right, there's a small alcove in the corner. Climb obvious hand-fist crack at left of alcove. Route starts in alcove.

Protection

G-GP pro, if you can unpump long enough to place it. Gear-only anchor at top - do NOT use the Pitch Pines.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Amanda leads Jam On
[Hide Photo] Amanda leads Jam On
Jam On
[Hide Photo] Jam On

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gunkiemike
[Hide Comment] The back RIGHT-hand corner of the alcove (i.e. about 8 ft right of this route) is an overhanging off-width/squeeze chimney that goes at 5.8 or so. It is really "snug", and if you go too high, you probably will get stuck. So exit out to the front at your earliest opportunity. Warning - it's not the sort of route you'll be in a hurry to do again. Ever. May 16, 2011
David K
The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
  5.5
[Hide Comment] I did this hoping to get some jams in, but found it much more comfortable to just lieback the crack--the angle makes this actually less strenuous. Maybe all the folks who tried to hand jam are why this is rated 5.7 right now? Nov 6, 2018
Roshan Soondar
New Rochelle New York
 
[Hide Comment] I think this climb is too soft to be considered a 7. The layback and the jams are both intuitive. Apr 6, 2021
petzl logic
[Hide Comment] Does anyone know what the wide crack is just to the right of this? Oct 17, 2021
Gunkiemike
[Hide Comment] Did you read my first comment? It's called "Oh, Ow" (short for overhanging offwidth). It's scary tight, but it's possible to stay out of it almost entirely. Oct 18, 2021
Ray Murphy
NJ
[Hide Comment] IMO good lead for a crack climbing enthusiast, not as enjoyable for someone just breaking into 5.6 Nov 28, 2022