[Hide Comment] This is the best dihedral I have climbed in a while! Dec 28, 2009

[Hide Comment] Truly G-rated. I am a nimrod for not leading this climb. It's beautiful, sustained and eats gear from bottom to top. Super climb. Aug 30, 2010

[Hide Comment] very worthy indeed Nov 24, 2010

[Hide Comment] A rare treat for the Gunks where high quality "G" climb are relatively rare. If only it were longer. Jun 23, 2011

[Hide Comment] Beautiful climb that makes the Golden Wall worth revisiting from time to time. Nov 18, 2011

[Hide Comment] Great climb. Obviously G, and easy to place gear at the crux, but was pretty pumpy placing gear in the last twenty feet or so. Jul 14, 2013

[Hide Comment] this is not sustained, despite popular belief. short and fun. Jul 19, 2014

[Hide Comment] A great G-rated lead, but you can also scramble up the trail to the right of the climb to get to the top where there are 2 bolts for use as an anchor. But you'll have to bring your own slings/lockers to set up an extended top rope anchor, as there are no chains. Apr 25, 2017

[Hide Comment] To be more precise - there are no chains on any bolted anchors anywhere at PK. Apr 26, 2017

[Hide Comment] After setting up a top rope anchor, is it best to walk off? Seems hard to get into a repelling position. Jul 17, 2017

[Hide Comment] If you set the TR so that the powerpoint is no more than a foot or so below the edge, it shouldn't be too hard to downclimb a couple moves so your partner can then lower you. Lacking a partner at the bottom OTOH does make for a difficult rap. Make sure your autoblock is working (!) and consider lowering yourself (rapping, batmanning etc) off a tether of some sort for the first few feet. Extending your rap device in the modern way will certainly make this even more problematic. Jul 22, 2017

[Hide Comment] If you set up more than one TR, the neighboring route "Slot Machine" is much easier to rap from, due to a good foothold hidden under the overhang. Nov 11, 2017

[Hide Comment] What was always known half jokingly, yet half seriously, as "the best 5.9 in the Gunks" seems to have gotten a proper name here now. Before Peterskill became a legal place to climb, it offered a quiet diversion from the scene over at the Trapps etc. My first climbs, along with a few parking tickets, were in the PK when it was forbidden territory. The Access Fund and local Gunks climbers worked long and hard with Mohonk, NY State, and the Palisades Interstate Park Commission (of all entities!) to reopen PK to climbing. The result was to make it a recreational-use NY State fee area. During a momentous fall day after the official announcement and ribbon cutting was held, we slid into the woods to enjoy exceptional weather and climbs. My partner on this Northeast jaunt was Sally Moser, a noted western trad climber and Sierra/ Kings guidebook author. She's been up on some pretty dicey stuff and after leading it (being the out of town guest), I asked her:
'Whaddya think?" She smiled and said "Best ever !!" May 8, 2018

[Hide Comment] This used to be known as the "ski minnie corner" Mar 22, 2019

[Hide Comment] On my first visit to PK, I was told it's called "Tofu Martyr". Apr 30, 2019

[Hide Comment] youtube.com/watch?v=m_yzn8j… Sep 5, 2023

[Hide Comment] The FA was Rich Romano, he called the climb Dihedral Triptamide ... Sep 7, 2023

[Hide Comment] The first time I tried this climb was my 1 year sobriety anniversary, and at that time, it was well beyond my abilities. I tried it a few times over the next few years and slowly improved, until I moved away. Came back from a few years climbing elsewhere with a lot more strength and experience, and it was easy. This climb was a wonderful journey for me. With GGG gear it's an excellent place for an aspiring 5.9 leader to challenge themselves. Nov 10, 2023

[Hide Comment] Dreamy dihedral. The little sister of Ant's Line and Bonnie's Roof - the must-do 5.9 crack dihedral trinity of the Gunks.

Devours bombproof gear the whole way up and plenty of opportunity to stem and shake out. Mar 20, 2024