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Routes in s. The Golden Wall

Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b X
Chris' Cringe or Hatti's Horror TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Completely Francois TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Golden Dream, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jam On! T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
Slot Machine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Stinky Americans T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Super Skink TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Time for Therapy T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12,002 total, 90/month
Shared By: Taino Grosjean on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


134 Opinions

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Description

A fully-sustained fingercrack in a dihedral, that starts off just barely slab and ends up just barely overhanging. THE best 5.9 I've ever climbed. Also, the climb on the cover of the Peterskill guide.

Location

Climb the fingercrack in the obvious left-facing dihedral on the right end of the Golden Wall alcove. Easy to walk off.

Protection

G-rated - it's a sustained fingercrack. There is a double-bolted anchor at the top.
David Kerkeslager
Brooklyn, NY
 
David Kerkeslager   Brooklyn, NY
 
If you set up more than one TR, the neighboring route "Slot Machine" is much easier to rap from, due to a good foothold hidden under the overhang. Nov 11, 2017
Nolan Huther
Clarkson University
  5.9
Nolan Huther   Clarkson University
  5.9
Not to be missed by any connoisseur of crack-in-a-corner climbing, a must lead for any climber of this grade Aug 18, 2017
If you set the TR so that the powerpoint is no more than a foot or so below the edge, it shouldn't be too hard to downclimb a couple moves so your partner can then lower you. Lacking a partner at the bottom OTOH does make for a difficult rap. Make sure your autoblock is working (!) and consider lowering yourself (rapping, batmanning etc) off a tether of some sort for the first few feet. Extending your rap device in the modern way will certainly make this even more problematic. Jul 22, 2017
G Koro  
After setting up a top rope anchor, is it best to walk off? Seems hard to get into a repelling position. Jul 17, 2017
To be more precise - there are no chains on any bolted anchors anywhere at PK. Apr 26, 2017
A great G-rated lead, but you can also scramble up the trail to the right of the climb to get to the top where there are 2 bolts for use as an anchor. But you'll have to bring your own slings/lockers to set up an extended top rope anchor, as there are no chains. Apr 25, 2017
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
5.8+
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
5.8+
this is not sustained, despite popular belief. short and fun. Jul 19, 2014
Logan Schiff
Brooklyn, NY
  5.9+
Logan Schiff   Brooklyn, NY
  5.9+
Great climb. Obviously G, and easy to place gear at the crux, but was pretty pumpy placing gear in the last twenty feet or so. Jul 14, 2013
Anthony Nguyen
Philadelphia
 
Anthony Nguyen   Philadelphia
 
Beautiful climb that makes the Golden Wall worth revisiting from time to time. Nov 18, 2011
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
 
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
 
A rare treat for the Gunks where high quality "G" climb are relatively rare. If only it were longer. Jun 23, 2011
AWinters
NH
 
AWinters   NH  
 
very worthy indeed Nov 24, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Truly G-rated. I am a nimrod for not leading this climb. It's beautiful, sustained and eats gear from bottom to top. Super climb. Aug 30, 2010
Jasonn
 
Jasonn  
 
This is the best dihedral I have climbed in a while! Dec 28, 2009