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Routes in Weenie Buttress

Big Weenie S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Excalibur S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Indian Drug Carpet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lorain's T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Magic Wand S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Thor's Hammer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Stacy Fairbank
Page Views: 149 total, 1/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 20, 2006
Admins: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug

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Description

Face climb to the roof, aiming for the 2 foot long undercling. Then continue up on steep sustained face climbing along the thin seam on the left. Good rock.

Location

On the prow of Weenie Buttress. Starts on the right side of the lower roof. Notice a 2 foot long undercling under the roof.

Protection

Bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Stick clip suggested for the first bolt. Rap or lower.

Photos

Zane Winter
Kansas City, MO
  5.11d
Zane Winter   Kansas City, MO
  5.11d
Fantastic route. Pumpy, relentless. Nov 9, 2017
Marcus Floyd
columbia, mo
Marcus Floyd   columbia, mo  
Lead this jewel without knowing the route name or difficulty. Need-less-to-say, we gave it an 11+ rating. It felt similar difficulty to next line, which I now know as Thor's Hammer. Both routes were enjoied while visiting the crag in 2008. The objective was to see how many sport climbs we could lead through in one day, starting with the east end of the bluff and heading west. Wow, we were sore by the end of that trip. Thanks for placing the bolts fellow climbers.
Marcus Floyd
Nov 6, 2012