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Routes in The Moat Boulder

Child Prodigy V6 7A
Codswallop V0 4
Down Climb, The V0 4
Fat Of The Land, The V8 7B
Fingerflake V0 4
Firestarter V3 6A
Moat Crack V1 5
Moat Flake V1 5
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,597 total, 20/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 19, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

On the road-side of the Moat Boulder lies a steep, well-featured face. Firestarter climbs up the right side of this wall. Start sitting with good holds and make a big move up left to a flake and another big move to the lip.

This problem is one of those that just flows well...the kind that you find yourself doing everytime you are in the area.

Protection

Pads
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
DRusso - starting on the chalked jug to the right is just a variation. It would certainly change the grade starting there. May 22, 2017
DRusso  
Any opinions on starting out right? The two holds down and right from the regular start were heavily chocked this weekend, but it seems like if you start there and move up and left you would be able to grab the lip pretty early on making it easier. May 22, 2017
Graham O.  
 
Awesome climb! You can start out right and double dyno to the two jug flakes, too! Aug 10, 2016
DRusso  
The right hand side pull above the starting hold finally broke today. Problem is still doable but maybe slightly harder. Still V3 I'd say. Mar 27, 2016
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
  V3-
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
  V3-
Sidepull right above the starting holds flexes quite a bit... Use with discretion Oct 18, 2015
Derek Jf
Northeast
  V3
Derek Jf   Northeast
  V3
worth it to climb this every time you walk by- moves are great and top outs low enough you don't need a pad just a good spot Jul 7, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V3
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V3
really great movement... Jun 20, 2012
Even better: Start with your hands crossed, bump through (still a cross) to the first crimp then get a solid foot and big static reach past the sloping crimp rail to the second one. The move requires a pretty stiff lockoff (right arm) on a less than pleasant crimp, but this beta makes it a MUCH more enjoyable sequence. Apr 9, 2010
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
 
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
 
There are also intermediate holds to avoid the huge move. GASTON!!! Dec 1, 2008