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Routes in The Moat Boulder

Child Prodigy V6 7A
Codswallop V0 4
Down Climb, The V0 4
Fat Of The Land, The V8 7B
Fingerflake V0 4
Firestarter V3 6A
Moat Crack V1 5
Moat Flake V1 5
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Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,455 total · 25/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 19, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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24 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Both Firestarter and Child Prodigy can be found on the road-facing side of the Moat Boulder. Firestarter climbs the right side of the face on big holds and Child Prodigy starts as per Firestarter and breaks left.

Start on big holds that mark the start of Firestarter. Rather than going to a flake with your left hand, grab the crimp right below it and head left into an ill-defined inside corner. The crimps continue, some facing the wrong direction, until the lip where a hero-jug awaits. Topout up and right.

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Pads
Lanky
Tired
 
Lanky   Tired
 
I really like this problem. Didn't find the rumored hero jug, though...

Also, it looks like there's a more intuitive start using low sidepul in the inside corner. Would make more sense than starting to the right. Oct 16, 2008
Jesse Coburn
Manchester, NH
Jesse Coburn   Manchester, NH
where does this route end? up the arete seems super tough, but i havent felt the holds. out right to the jug? Dec 2, 2008
Lanky
Tired
 
Lanky   Tired
 
Pretty sure you top out to the right (above Firestarter). Dec 3, 2008
I agree with the more intuitive and direct start. Seems very obvious to me, where as starting Firestarter and moving up and left seems a bit contrived.
Overall great problem with hard finish! Apr 8, 2012
JamieRe Re
Providence, RI
 
JamieRe Re   Providence, RI
 
Yea the direct start seems to be the way to go. A bit reachy for the tyrannosaur folk ( like me ) Can't wait to get back there. Apr 9, 2012
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6+
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6+
Julian's suggested direct start is by far the more logical starting place. Otherwise, this route is quite contrived. It doesn't make any difference in the difficulty either, since the crux (IMO) is the last couple of moves at the top.

The top out is fairly strange as well, as it's not entirely clear what is 'acceptable' and what's not. Too bad because it does climb quite well with great long-ish moves on cool holds. Jun 20, 2012
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V6+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V6+
I Finally sent this rig today! This route has taken me several years of trying to actually send. By far the longest I have worked on any particular boulder problem. It is an awesome route would be 4 stars if it didn't have to cut right into Firestarter. Nov 23, 2013
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
  V5
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
  V5
Tricky beta made this feel fairly easy(compared to nearby v6's).

  • ***beta alert****

went left into undercling, tricky foot swap to gain far left foot on good edge, and I was able to bring my foot high into a scoop feature(almost drop knee) to make the last move an easy, but precise, deadpoint. Oct 18, 2015
Eli
GMC3500
Eli   GMC3500
I cannot be the only person who thinks this route does not make any sense, has no clear start or end, and can not possibly clock in anywhere near V6.... right? Mar 1, 2018
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
 
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
 
I'd say either starting on Firestarter or starting just sitting to the left is fine Eli, wouldn't change the difficulty, I worked up to the position in this photo, right hand on sidepull: mountainproject.com/photo/1… then did a big left hand cross over to a good but hard to see edge above and between the climber's hands. After that move out right to top out.

I completely agree with you, always thought this felt super hard and never knew what to do to make it feel reasonable. It does go, and has good movement. Mar 2, 2018
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V6+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V6+
Eli, I am with you, this has always seemed hard in the V6 grade. I wouldn't argue an upgrade. (I feel this is significantly harder than Metallic, which gets the V7 grade) Mar 4, 2018

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