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Routes in Main Wall

Bad Santa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Common Wealth S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Community Service S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ecstatic Electricity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fish, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
For the People S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Play S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Been Robbed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Lonely Eagle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Litheon Flux S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lugee Head S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Massive Headwound Harry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Send It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Vacation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stealin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Sheets To The Wind S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Header S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Play T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Left of I Been Robbed) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Four Play) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Right of Triple Play) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed Mixed Route T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Valentine Arete S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Valentine Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome to Milagrosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where the Buffalo Roam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wizard, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,047 total · 8/month
Shared By: Scott Tucker on Dec 18, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

This climb is unnamed and rated 5.10 in the Tucson Select Sport Climbing book. It has some hard moves and the clips are very tricky and sketchy on the lower part. The crux move feels harder than straight 5.10.

Location

Leftmost route on the Main Wall, left of I've Been Robbed.

Protection

Bolts & chains.

Photos

Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
 
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
 
Got on this a few days ago. Felt slightly harder than Stealin', although it may have been because I started up too far right and ended up having to downclimb and traverse back into the proper line. Definitely not a horrible route, but nothing special either. Apr 19, 2015
Jimbo  
OK I posted I would move it down in 2007. It took me 7 years to get around to it. Is this what they mean by a 7 year itch. Mar 18, 2014
I believe the bolt was upgraded as the old bolt and hanger were mixed metals (stainless/non-stainless). Rock quality may account for how it ended up lower so it could be more easily clipped. Hmmm, what a coincidence eh Jimbo. Just saying what I believe happened. Mar 18, 2014
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
Some kind soul recently moved the second bolt a foot lower, greatly improving the flow and safety of the lower section, not to mention mercifully putting a stop to the ongoing whine-fest here. No longer a bomb (but still 11-, and harder than Stealin'!) in my book. Thanks to whoever did it. Note that if you're short, you still might have the issues noted above. Mar 17, 2014
Mike Kane
Tucson, AZ
Mike Kane   Tucson, AZ
I would give this route two stars if the bolting weren't so scary. The second bolt placement has already been discussed but I also did not like the run out before the last bolt as the natural line trends left and directly over a large ledge that would be difficult to avoid if you fell near the bolt. Feb 10, 2014
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
I was Slaton's friend who "got through the crux on lead." I did it by straining at the absolute limit of my reach (I'm 5'11") off terrible holds to get the draw through the bolt, then quickly grabbing the draw to clip in lieu of decking. Pretty annoying--might be worth it if there was something more than 20 feet of 5.8 above, but there's not. That said, like jbak says this route does give you the opportunity to practice skills that you might need, on routes that *are* worth it. Other than that I'd recommend doing another route, unless you've already climbed everything on the main wall. Jan 4, 2014
I just tried this route today and I didn't have the mental fortitude to try and clip the second bolt. Scary climbing through there. The movement is definitely fun though. Did it on top rope after my friend got through the crux on lead. Second bolt doesn't seemed to have been moved... Nov 15, 2013
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.10d
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.10d
this route is worth doing, and it took all of us multiple tries to send it so it's harder than 5.10. Dec 21, 2008
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
So then this route lets you do a little soloing, or lets you practice down-climbing. Both contribute to your skills. Feb 2, 2007
Steve Pulver
Williston, ND
Steve Pulver   Williston, ND
After thinking a little more about this, I'm not really sure where the bolts should be. All I know is I don't like the clipping stance for the second bolt. Feb 2, 2007
Braxtron
...
  5.10
Braxtron   ...
  5.10
I'm the climber Steve means by his 'cracking the belayer in the head' anecdote. Moving between the 1st and 2nd bolts is the crux, and since the bolt placements are horrible at best, you're basically doing it sans pro. In my opinion, the crux is the only 5.10 move on this climb, the rest is 8-9 at best and not enjoyable. Avoid. Jan 29, 2007
Rick Shull
Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
  5.10+
Rick Shull   Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV  
  5.10+
This route would be pretty decent without the deck potential. It's thin all the way through from the 1st to 2nd bolt making the clip difficult even if the bolt were lower. I decked from about 15+ feet(at the 2nd clip) and the rope came tight just as I hit, keeping me from falling backward down the hill. I pulled through 2nd try using a different clipping hold. What turned out to be a normal day sport climbing could of been bad if my belayer had been standing directly below me. I had assessed the route and noticed the ground fall potential, so I asked my belayer to stand off to one side. Just a reminder to be "heads up". Jan 22, 2007
Jimbo  
The second bolt should be moved down. The next time I'm in there with the old Bosch I'll move it. Jan 3, 2007
Steve Pulver
Williston, ND
Steve Pulver   Williston, ND
Maybe some day... a generous person will improve the bolt locations on this route, by either moving the first bolt up, or the second bolt down. I've seen one bad fall with the climber hitting the belayer in the head, hard. Dec 21, 2006

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