[Hide Comment] Here's a fun variation to Valentines. Start up the arete of the 5.12 roof route then bust left when you reach the roof and finish on Valentines. Makes for fun 5.10 route. I call it the Valentines Day Manicure. Dec 26, 2006

[Hide Comment] This is truly a classic line. The rock is interesting with it's stripped nature and lots of edges. Using the sharp arete at the start with a few key moves low down. To me, it doesn't matter how hard you're climbing this route is fun, enjoyable and always worth a ride.

6 bolts - chain anchor Feb 6, 2007

[Hide Comment] Rather polished from traffic, but this is one of the first routes I ever finished instead of snivelling to be lowered from :) Mar 21, 2007

[Hide Comment] This route is a one move wonder and the rock gets less good as you go higher up. Just to the right of the chains i ripped off three brick sized rocks. Note also, the crack to the left shares the same problem, the cracks look good but the rock is fractured and soft. I've sent rocks off of this route twice, most of the pro is placed in pack rat shit and its not really worth bringing the cams. Oct 26, 2007

[Hide Comment] The lower section is super stiff for 5.8, maybe especially for shorter people. I was shredded at the time, so its a little hard to rate it with my first experience. Probably a sandbag at 5.8, maybe 9-. Most likely no harder than a typical Lemmon 5.9, though I think those are sandbagged many times. Fun route though, well worth it! Jan 10, 2008

[Hide Comment] Definitely not 5.8. More like 5.9. May 1, 2009

[Hide Comment] I agree this is stiff for 5.8, at least at the bottom, and would go 5.9. The route is clean and fun--didn't find any loose stuff on the route at all. Mar 14, 2010

[Hide Comment] Fun moves. A 5.8 leader might get worked by the opening moves, it's quite a sandbag at 5.8. Mar 29, 2011

[Hide Comment] One of my solid 5.11 buddies would never fall off this one, but he might struggle and complain about it every time he gets on it. ;-)) I won't mention any names but I will agree that this sure ain't 5.8. If you do it right, it's easy 5.9. If you really try, you can turn it into 10+. Take your pick. Sep 20, 2011

[Hide Comment] I do this route every time I go to Milagrosa, and every time I'm surprised at how tricky and enjoyable it is. The first 3 bolts are definitely 5.9, after that it eases up quite a bit. Dec 4, 2016

[Hide Comment] This route has definitely gotten harder since the first time I climbed it in the late 2000s. Gneiss is fairly hard rock but the lower footholds are getting polished. Still a very cool route, though the original grade of 5.8 no longer applies. Jan 29, 2023