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The Sting

5.11d, Trad,  Avg: 3.4 from 65 votes
FA: Russ Clune, Dan McMillian and Russ Raffa, 1983
New York > Gunks > Trapps > j. The Yellow Wall &…
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

Locate the short, clean wall in an alcove to the right of the The Yellow Wall. The Sting climbs up a series of horizontals (what else?) in the middle of the wall.

The start holds a V3-ish boulder problem that is slightly spicy considering the lack of gear and the menacing boulder just to your left. Great gear can be found at the first horizontal. The good holds continue to the final boulder problem before the anchors. I was told that the beta is a full-on double dyno to the ledge, but I have reason to believe that this person hosed me on the beta, thus making me fall and laughing at me. A small crimp offers a static alternative to the ill-advised dyno.

After the bouldery start, The Sting is a well-protected, pumpy route that climbs more like a sport route given its big moves and relatively steep angle.

There is a nest of questionable fixed tat directly above the route; it is possible to climb Lisa to access it.

Protection

Cams up to 3+ inches.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Frank M. choosing to use the crimps over the dyno finish.
[Hide Photo] Frank M. choosing to use the crimps over the dyno finish.
GOING!
[Hide Photo] GOING!
Traversing from the finish of Lisa to set up a toprope on The Sting
[Hide Photo] Traversing from the finish of Lisa to set up a toprope on The Sting
pumpy gear!
[Hide Photo] pumpy gear!
sticking the dyno to the top
[Hide Photo] sticking the dyno to the top
gone!
[Hide Photo] gone!
going...
[Hide Photo] going...
going
[Hide Photo] going
just before
[Hide Photo] just before
leading
[Hide Photo] leading
Getting set up for the boulder problem on The Sting, which is a big lunge to the next horizontal. Photo Kayte Knower.
[Hide Photo] Getting set up for the boulder problem on The Sting, which is a big lunge to the next horizontal. Photo Kayte Knower.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tim Schafstall
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Date for that first ascent is 1983. As one might guess from the description, this climb is harder for the vertically challenged. Most folks TR it after leading Lisa. Apr 24, 2008
monkeyvanya
Denver, CO
[Hide Comment] In fact the first move is perfectly protectable with ballnutz #2 or #3 and blue and green BD C3. Apr 23, 2009
Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] The initial climbing off the ground can be done statically to the left of the dyno variation. I remember placing a bomber nut on the initial seam (where climber has hands in beta photo). In all the pitch only took six pieces (I placed two cams on the horizontal before the exit crux - static version, using crimp up and left) and felt well protected all the way. The standard beta for the crux is to indeed throw for the final horizontal, but I have seem better success with the static variation. Jun 28, 2010
Ian Wauchope
Dover, NH
 
[Hide Comment] The dyno to finish is good beta. I tried with the small crimps and it felt way harder. With a dyno you are going from jug ledge to jug ledge, but it does seem improbable as you hang below it. Great .75 placement at the move. May 5, 2011
chris_vultaggio
The Gunks
 
[Hide Comment] All-points-off dyno finish is definitely exciting, you can stitch up the gear as much as you want before making the move to the top.

Awesome route, great moves. Oct 5, 2011
[Hide Comment] My first pieces were red C3 in opposition with the small purple BD nut. I protected the move shown in my picture with a green C3 slotted in where my left hand is. I used a dyno to finish. Aug 27, 2012
Will Stat
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I wouldn't recommend placing gear for the first dyno, it's much nicer to land on a crash pad from 8 feet up than try to catch a lead fall there. Nov 8, 2012
[Hide Comment] Bad advice about not placing gear at the start unless you are sure that you will hit that move. Blue alien is bomber and I have seen it catch more than one person there. With that good gear you will not deck unless you have a really bad belay. Nov 10, 2012
Alex Shainman
Las Vegas, NV
 
[Hide Comment] Wow what a bitchin' line, even though it's short and doesn't go through a roof! Powerful and bold but it's actually all there: 3 horizontals where 2 cams will fit in each (2x #3 Camalot and/or a #4 C4, Red+Yellow Aliens, #1+#.75 Camalots). At many newer sport areas this would be 12a or b, and have 4 or 5 bolts. I 2nd or 3rd not putting any gear in the start and just bouldering it out, I think it's safer. Using the crimp on the last move is definitely the way to go for me at least. I thought that middle move was the hardest. How did the FA protect the middle?

I think the anchor is a heaping mess and even though it's a crack, come'on put a couple bolts in there! Sure there are like 5 nuts in there but 2 were loose when I got there. Sep 30, 2013
Jon Frisby
midwest/west circuit (Indiana)
 
[Hide Comment] 100% agree with David. The move gets your hips two feet above the piece so it's actually a reasonably soft fall on the gear and is particularly nice if you setup but aren't feeling the move.

Also, make sure to get a couple pieces in the middle horizontal (.4/.5/large nut). It widens on the left side Nov 22, 2015
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.11d
[Hide Comment] Rumor has it that the last move was done with a dyno on the first ascent. I think it's significantly easier that way. Placing gear for the first move is a good idea. It caught my fat ass once! Oct 13, 2016