Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jack Marshall
Page Views: 7,275 total · 48/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Dec 16, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Sustained climbing with no discernible crux other than possibly the last set of moves to the anchors. Rest assured, they are large and easy to clip from so keep going. This classic line is deserving of the stars and namesake as it has all the elements of great holds, good protection, esthetics and location.


Third route to the right of dirty crack. Look for large sloping, brown varnished foot hold at the start.

Southern CA sport climbing guide route # 878


6 bolts, shut anchors



I think the crux is between the last bolt and the anchors. Mar 22, 2007
johnnydanger   California
For sure Jay, I just did it yesterday and the crux is the last move to the top. Jan 16, 2011
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
This climb is an amazing lead. It should be on your "must do" list for .10a in New Jack City. Aug 29, 2011
Super fun! Get's a little pumpy toward the crux before the anchors Dec 30, 2011
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
A recommended route for the grade with it's variety of moves and quality rock. No real crux on this but it does require a bit more technique than some of the others at the grade. Feb 24, 2012
Clif Clap  
Apart from being pretty fun this is a perfect warm-up for intermediate climbers. Jan 3, 2013
Todd Townsend
Bishop, CA
Todd Townsend   Bishop, CA
This felt pretty burly for the grade, compared to the 10a's across the way at the Boy Scout Wall. Nevertheless, it's a great rock climb and you all should do it. May 1, 2016
Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
Really enjoyed this route. It was my first .10a outside. If you're short, good luck getting off the ground and using that first polished sloping foot. Other than that, the bolts are plentiful and the holds are solid. May 20, 2016
Super fun..and yes crux at the top Apr 3, 2018
Rob Wagner
San Diego
Rob Wagner   San Diego
I feel like the crux is getting to the 4th bolt as it requires a pretty sustained undercling / clipping scenario. After that it's pretty crimpy but stable. Also a fairly large handhold around bolt #3 came off (and narrowly missed me, yay helmets!) while my friend was climbing on 1/19/2019. And yeah, this 10a is harder than other 10a's at NJC. Jan 21, 2019