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Routes in 5.2 - Devils Doorway

Bloody Finger T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Doorway Chimney T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a R
Impossible Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Romper T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 2,646 total · 19/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Dec 15, 2006
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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21 Opinions

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Description

Perhaps the best offwidth at Devil's Lake. Impossible Crack is the very obvious line on the lefthand pillar of Devil's Doorway when viewed from the East. Start up by making a few face moves to gain the perfect (#2 Camalot) handcrack in the two-foot roof. Surmount the roof and climb offwidth to top, using a few small face holds on the right. Do your best not to stand on any of the ledges that are so close and beckoning...

Location

On Devil's Doorway proper. Easily noticed as the large crack just left of the doorway when viewed from the East.

Protection

Nuts/tricams, to a #2 C4 (or two), to a #4 C4, and finally a #5 C4 (or two).
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
  5.8
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
  5.8
Don't armbar or use any off-width technique and you're golden. Bring 1 #4 Camalot. Sing "Return of The Mac" while you flail on this thing. Jun 4, 2011
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
I didn't find this to be particularly thrilling climbing but the summit and applause when you finish make it better. Definitely tricky to get in the right positions to ascend. Aug 7, 2011
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Four pieces of gear: pink tricam, #2 C4, #4 C4, and a #5 C4.

You could substitute the appropriate size nut for the tricam, it's just there to keep you from bouncing into the abyss on the first easy moves.

And you could use the 3 & 4 C4s instead of the 4 & 5, but you will have to put more thought into how you place them. Aug 8, 2013
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.8
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.8
Agree with Doug, mostly. I wouldn't want to climb this thing without a #5. It fit perfectly and requires no finesse to quickly place while you are struggling to just not fall out of that upper crack. May 10, 2018
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
Amused to hear the "golf applause" when you climbed this last weekend, Chris. May 11, 2018

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