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Routes in The Tall Wall

Back Trail S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Banana Hammock S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bananarama S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Don't Dream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diamondblade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lives of the Cowboys S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rotten Bananas S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spur S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tall T S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Raleigh Collins, "OC"
Page Views: 5,080 total, 38/month
Shared By: Jon duSaint on Dec 15, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Long route up the left side of the formation. Bolt count is approximate - bring extra draws.

Protection

9 bolts
Beau Griffith
Fresno, CA
5.8
Beau Griffith   Fresno, CA
5.8
I led this with a 60m rope and had exactly enough rope to get back down (all the way to the ground, not the ledge about 5' high) with rope stretch. If you have a 60 and some courage I highly recommend it. Mar 27, 2017
Will H.
  5.7
Will H.  
  5.7
Agreed on the hardest moves all being comfortably protected. Felt more flowy than Bananarama, but it's best to do both! Mar 24, 2016
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.7
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.7
I thought that this route felt easier than Bananarama by a full grade. It also felt better protected. The route's hardest moves seem to all have a chest-high bolt. By comparison, I remember pulling two different 5.8 cruxes on Bananarama, where the bolt was well below my feet.

This is an awesome route on one of the coolest formations in the Hills. Feb 9, 2015
kenr
 
kenr  
 
A little harder, and a little more interesting than Bananarama Nov 28, 2014
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.7+
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.7+
This does have a thinnish move about 3/4 of the way up that's "harder" than anything on Bananarama.

Also note that it shares the last bolt with Bananarama (and yes, your belayer should tie in if you're on a 60m) Apr 16, 2012
LifeIsGood
Reno, NV
 
LifeIsGood   Reno, NV
 
I thought Rotten Banana's was slightly more difficult than Bananarama.

I agree with the beta on the rope length. We had a 60m and it was a rope stretcher. My belayer stood on the hump/ledge to meet me. The 70m would have made it no problem. May 15, 2010
boulderkeith
Boulder, CO
  5.8
boulderkeith   Boulder, CO
  5.8
I can confirm that is more than 30m to the chains. Greg's 105' seems right. Apr 6, 2010
craig service and myself hand drilled a 4 bolt 5.8 up this wall in 89': called it wadcutter, the base was really shot up
on the back of this formation is a three bolt arete to face we never completed Sep 15, 2009
This was a retrobolted old route, FA unknown, you can still see some old bolt holes. Also, the route length is 105', you can't quite get to the ground with a 60m rope, but you can get to the ledge shortly off the ground. Dec 20, 2006