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Bunk Arete

5.6, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 92 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Gunks > Peterskill > b. Bunkbed Wall

Description

A very heady 5.6, with lots of exposure. I wish it were longer.

Location

Getting off the ground is the easy part. Climb up the face of the first two "ledges" within a few feet of the arete, then directly up the very exposed arete on the last tier. Follow the blue/yellow-blazed access trail to descend.

Protection

Pro is scarce, with definite ledge-fall potential the entire way. There is a double-bolted anchor at the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the bottom of the route
[Hide Photo] At the bottom of the route
Standing on the second ledge
[Hide Photo] Standing on the second ledge
J. Cub, age 7, high on the route
[Hide Photo] J. Cub, age 7, high on the route
Alicia just below the arete, 20 September 2015
[Hide Photo] Alicia just below the arete, 20 September 2015
Bunk Arete
[Hide Photo] Bunk Arete

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

micah richard
Litchfield, Connecticut
[Hide Comment] Fun route, spicy at the top. i thought there was gear where you needed it. a blue tcu backed up with a small stopper and a #2 metolius or similar, protect the final moves. perhaps a little thin for 5.6. Sep 5, 2011
Timothy Helgers
 
[Hide Comment] Seemed like a 5.3-5.5 for most of it, but more like 5.7 at the top. Ran into a snake sunning itself on the cliff face ten feet from the top. May 10, 2018
Anthony Haamen
 
[Hide Comment] Saw a nice big copperhead on the cliff when I was walking down. Watch your hands in the cracks! Aug 2, 2018
Joseph Woltering
Lindenhurst, NY
[Hide Comment] Almost put my hand directly on a little baby copperhead as I was reaching up for a hold. Like everyone else wrote, try to check the faces before placing your hands down on them. Aug 29, 2018
Ryan Schneider
 
[Hide Comment] I agree with the other reviewers that it seems stiff for 5.6 near the top on lead. I found lots of smearing and looking for microchips. I was more focused on not dying than enjoying the climb. Be careful to not follow the chalk to far to the right as I did and face climb, rather than using the arete. Oct 21, 2019
Sean Warman
Rhinebeck
 
[Hide Comment] if the upper section was longer I would give this 4 stars. Wonderful face climbing on very good rock, just short. I just did Frogs head a few days prior and as reference, this is easier, so I would say the grade is 5.5? I felt the gear was fine and their are lots of variations. Sep 4, 2020
The Weavers
High Falls NY
[Hide Comment] Great positioning on the arete near the top. High quality rock and movement. Adequate gear options. Sep 11, 2021