Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Will Hair
Page Views: 3,561 total · 24/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 14, 2006
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route

42 Opinions

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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details


One of the finest moderate routes on the island--the “everyman’s route” of the stalactite world. 45 feet of climbing on some of the oddest terrain in the world. Too bad it's not 3X longer.


Go right from the Freedom Bar for perhaps 50 meters until you see a small cave-like roof low to the ground, formed under a rounded sloping ledge a few meters up. Just above this ledge a stalagmite points up off of a shelf towards the huge stalactite looming above it. Stalagasaurus climbs in from below and left onto the ledge, then up the right side of the stalagmite and stalactite with stems and every other tufa trick you can use to keep the climbing simple.


4 good bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.


Art Morimitsu
Huntington Beach, Ca
Art Morimitsu   Huntington Beach, Ca
Unfortunately the big stalactite everyone stemmed on fell off the wall. The route is a bit harder now, closer to 6C+. Dec 14, 2006
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
yeah, without the stalagtite, it's a harder crux, but short. 6c+/7a, 2 move wondery type. but totally fun! Feb 28, 2007
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Does anyone know the story how it "fell". That thing was so cool! Oct 5, 2007
If your tall you can stem through the crux, making if feel more like 5.9. Great climb
. Aug 26, 2009
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)
The stalactite fell 'cuz so many people stemmed to it.

I think the route sucks w/o the stalactite. It never would have been bolted that way w/o it... it's not really a classic anymore.

Babes in Thailand and Lal Bab are right next to it... and aren't really any harder.

Babes is the best easy route on the beach. Sep 19, 2010
Dean Kure
Dean Kure  
skip the crimp and do a huge dynamic move to the meat hook for a nice bouldery crux! soo fun Feb 26, 2012