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Routes in Limbo Area

Abacab TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apostrophe T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aqualunge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
As the Crow Flies S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batso's Resurrection TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beke's Wild Ride T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cake Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Craig's Chimney TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Craig's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crow Boulder S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deviate Behavior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Digitalis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Trouble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Escape From The Underworld S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Facial Tissue TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
History Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indecision TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Kathy's Memorial T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Flies TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mighty Monger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mission Obscurity T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Ticket TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Punk Rock Show TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Revision TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rift, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standard Deviation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top of the Pops. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tower, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turkey Chute T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vawter's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Volume I TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,840 total, 51/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Dec 14, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Probably the most jammable crack at The Gorge. Great hand jams on sticky rock all the way up. The top gets a little wide, but not too bad. I would liken it to an easier version of The Robbins Crack. It is slightly longer than Robbins too! Would be an area gang-roped classic if its location were more obvious.

There are at least two other climbs on the same rope for a TR. Make sure your rope does not get pinched in the top of the crack like another's has. There was a bee hive near here not long ago, watch out for them.

Location

At the top of the hill. Really it's own area. Head uphill past Monkey Dance and Standard Deviation. This is just right of Turkey Chute and you will end up passing the top of this climb. Head to the top of the hill to a pinnacle with an obvious hand crack. You can see this pinnacle on the skyline from the road.

Protection

~Medium cams

Gear anchor, walk off back.
bmorris
 
bmorris  
 
So fun. Splitter. Wish it was a little longer. I could climb this 20 times over. Oct 23, 2017
Jer Om
San Diego, CA
  5.8-
Jer Om   San Diego, CA
  5.8-
We decided to toprope it but definitely can be lead. I set up an anchor with two passive pro on the top of the rock and a sling around the boulder behind it.

It's a bit of a rough scramble up to the crack but once you approach it, it's obvious which one it is from the photos on MP. It's past a bunch of routes so just keep on pressing until you feel you're almost at the top.



Great hand and foot jams. Must do for beginner crack climbers in the area.

Dec 6, 2016
Adam T.
Jun 12, 2014
Anyone know the name of the face climb just to the right of Craig's Crack? I think it was a 10a or b. Very fun route also.


Facial Tissue 5.10b Apr 6, 2015
Adam T.
San Diego, CA
 
Adam T.   San Diego, CA
 
Anyone know the name of the face climb just to the right of Craig's Crack? I think it was a 10a or b. Very fun route also. Jun 12, 2014
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
  5.7+
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
  5.7+
Excellent climb, a shame it's so short. Definitely worth the hike, though. Easy to protect, too. Mar 11, 2013
Andrew G
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Andrew G   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Great line, great jams. I'm not a particularly strong crack climber, but I had no problem sending Craig's Crack. Plenty of micro-ledges to the left make for good feet. Although the route is sadly short, it's worth the trek up. Amazing views for an added bonus.

A #3 C4 is nice for the top, otherwise you can sew it up nicely with 0.75-2 Feb 25, 2013
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.8
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.8
One of the better cracks at the gorge in the beautiful orange friction rock. Maybe it would have four stars if it was twice as long. Dec 23, 2012
sdrockstar81
el cajon, CA
  5.8
sdrockstar81   el cajon, CA
  5.8
Great climb! I think I will try to solo it next try. #.3-#2 BD C4's If I remember correctly... You can walk off the back but if you set up a top rope I reccomend bringing a med sized hex to slot through the boulders in the back, run a sling or two to the position you want. Worked perfect for me and my partner. Really nice climbing. Oct 21, 2012
Hoag Hoag
Littleton, CO
  5.8-
Hoag Hoag   Littleton, CO
  5.8-
If this route was 2 to 3 times as long there would be a line to climb it. The rock is excellent and the crack is perfect hands. The anchor is a bit tricky to build but some long webbing and a few stoppers or hexes does the trick. Jun 11, 2011
yosenhuttle
  5.8-
yosenhuttle  
  5.8-
I agree with Jonathan, avoid using the block at the top, it moves and isn't sufficiently large enough for an anchor. I really wanted to like this climb and the jams are sweet, but it is pretty short... Fun handcrack nevertheless Mar 19, 2011
Jonathan Bent
San Diego, CA
5.8
Jonathan Bent   San Diego, CA
5.8
To be fair, this crack is somewhere in the 25 to 30 foot range. Good jams.

In retrospect, you may want to consider that the large chunk of rock that separates the two cracks at the top from each other may be less secure than it looks from the bottom. Consider setting anchor slightly farther back in the right hand crack. Sep 14, 2010
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Can't believe this doesnt even see enough traffic to warrant a photo, definitely snapped one just for the page. Great climb, the business is pretty much off the deck and stays fun throughout. Feb 12, 2010