Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,015 total · 53/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Dec 14, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


83 Opinions

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Probably the most jammable crack at The Gorge. Great hand jams on sticky rock all the way up. The top gets a little wide, but not too bad. I would liken it to an easier version of The Robbins Crack. It is slightly longer than Robbins too! Would be an area gang-roped classic if its location were more obvious.

There are at least two other climbs on the same rope for a TR. Make sure your rope does not get pinched in the top of the crack like another's has. There was a bee hive near here not long ago, watch out for them.

Location

At the top of the hill. Really it's own area. Head uphill past Monkey Dance and Standard Deviation. This is just right of Turkey Chute and you will end up passing the top of this climb. Head to the top of the hill to a pinnacle with an obvious hand crack. You can see this pinnacle on the skyline from the road.

Protection

~Medium cams

Gear anchor, walk off back.
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Can't believe this doesnt even see enough traffic to warrant a photo, definitely snapped one just for the page. Great climb, the business is pretty much off the deck and stays fun throughout. Feb 12, 2010
Jonathan Bent
San Diego, CA
5.8
Jonathan Bent   San Diego, CA
5.8
To be fair, this crack is somewhere in the 25 to 30 foot range. Good jams.

In retrospect, you may want to consider that the large chunk of rock that separates the two cracks at the top from each other may be less secure than it looks from the bottom. Consider setting anchor slightly farther back in the right hand crack. Sep 14, 2010
yosenhuttle
  5.8-
yosenhuttle  
  5.8-
I agree with Jonathan, avoid using the block at the top, it moves and isn't sufficiently large enough for an anchor. I really wanted to like this climb and the jams are sweet, but it is pretty short... Fun handcrack nevertheless Mar 19, 2011
Hoag Hoag
Littleton, CO
  5.8-
Hoag Hoag   Littleton, CO
  5.8-
If this route was 2 to 3 times as long there would be a line to climb it. The rock is excellent and the crack is perfect hands. The anchor is a bit tricky to build but some long webbing and a few stoppers or hexes does the trick. Jun 11, 2011
sdrockstar81
el cajon, CA
  5.8
sdrockstar81   el cajon, CA
  5.8
Great climb! I think I will try to solo it next try. #.3-#2 BD C4's If I remember correctly... You can walk off the back but if you set up a top rope I reccomend bringing a med sized hex to slot through the boulders in the back, run a sling or two to the position you want. Worked perfect for me and my partner. Really nice climbing. Oct 21, 2012
Josh C
Somewhere out West
  5.8
Josh C   Somewhere out West
  5.8
One of the better cracks at the gorge in the beautiful orange friction rock. Maybe it would have four stars if it was twice as long. Dec 23, 2012
Andrew G
San Diego, CA
  5.8
Andrew G   San Diego, CA
  5.8
Great line, great jams. I'm not a particularly strong crack climber, but I had no problem sending Craig's Crack. Plenty of micro-ledges to the left make for good feet. Although the route is sadly short, it's worth the trek up. Amazing views for an added bonus.

A #3 C4 is nice for the top, otherwise you can sew it up nicely with 0.75-2 Feb 25, 2013
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
  5.7+
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
  5.7+
Excellent climb, a shame it's so short. Definitely worth the hike, though. Easy to protect, too. Mar 11, 2013
Adam T.
San Diego, CA
 
Adam T.   San Diego, CA
 
Anyone know the name of the face climb just to the right of Craig's Crack? I think it was a 10a or b. Very fun route also. Jun 12, 2014
Adam T.
Jun 12, 2014
Anyone know the name of the face climb just to the right of Craig's Crack? I think it was a 10a or b. Very fun route also.


Facial Tissue 5.10b Apr 6, 2015
Jer Om
San Diego, CA
  5.8-
Jer Om   San Diego, CA
  5.8-
We decided to toprope it but definitely can be lead. I set up an anchor with two passive pro on the top of the rock and a sling around the boulder behind it.

It's a bit of a rough scramble up to the crack but once you approach it, it's obvious which one it is from the photos on MP. It's past a bunch of routes so just keep on pressing until you feel you're almost at the top.



Great hand and foot jams. Must do for beginner crack climbers in the area.

Dec 6, 2016
Bill M
Berkeley, CA
 
Bill M   Berkeley, CA
 
So fun. Splitter. Wish it was a little longer. I could climb this 20 times over. Oct 23, 2017