Type: Trad, 900 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Gary Wolfarth & Jason Foote Summer 2006
Page Views: 2,496 total · 17/month
Shared By: J Foote on Dec 13, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


P1: Start in a left-facing corner [one bolt]. Continue up easy (runout) slab to bushy ramp. Climb the roof above to chains. 120'

P2: Easy right-facing corner and over roof. Step right onto slab [fixed KB] climbing technical terrain past two additional bolts. Continue up corner to roof. Step left onto slab [three bolts] to reach rap rings. 160'+/-

P3: Climb corner above anchors passing three bolts. Excellent climbing. 160'. This pitch was originally led without bolts!

P4: Follow easy slab to two-bolt anchor below roof. No pro. 60'

P5: "Puke Pitch". Step right to main left-facing/angled corner. Climb up the corner (thin pro) past two pins. Step left into next corner (very exposed) and climb handcrack to two-bolt belay on ledge in chimney. 200'

P6: Climb left side of chimney until it is possible to step across to the right. Loose chockstones--Beware! Climb to right of tree through brushy area and onto slab. Pass three bolts before heading back into brush for tree belay.

P7: Climb slab left of bushy corner. After second bolt work right to roof and finger crack. Mantle to 4:20 ledge for tree slings. 100'

P8: "The Tower of Bliss". Diagonal right past three bolts to groove/crack on right side of tower. Rap station in trees. 120'

This route was established ground up.


Approach: Park at the Grist Mill (.06 miles up from sign) Just below the Wasatch Resort is an old bridge abutments (approx. 400 yards down the trail) Cross the river here and head straight up the wash. Pick up a bouldering trail winding uphill. Pass the "Prime Rib" boulder and continue up and right on faint trail to base of climb. Approx. 20 minutes. During spring runoff it is impossible to cross the creek. You can cross higher up the canyon and traverse into the Wasatch Resort Bouldering Area and then continue up to the climb.
Descent: From the top of the 4:20 ledge it is possible to rap into the drainage to the west for an easy walkoff. Start from northern point of ledge for two raps to the west from fixed anchors. 110' and 70'. Thrash down to the main gully until you reach an impassable cliff. Traverse right (upcanyon) following the buttress edge back to the base of the climb. Approx. 15 minutes from rappel.


Medium nuts, 00 TCU thru #4 Camalot, lots of runners
This route is a lot of fun but we ran out of time. If you want to bail after the third pitch you can move about 15' up and off to the right above the belay on a small ledge system. Traverse about 50-100' back into the gully and down back to your packs.

Leading any of this without bolts would be terrifying with the little bit of lichen and all. I especially liked the third pitch but I have a feeling those upper pitches are where its at.

Nice work guys. Oh, and this starts about 40 yards uphill of Prime Rib. Jun 16, 2007
Very fun route. Kudos to the FA team. Almost every pitch of this 8 pitch climb is memorable and high quality. The last Tower Of Bliss pitch is awesome and not to be missed. Loved it! Jul 13, 2007
glen kaplan
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10- PG13
glen kaplan   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10- PG13
I couldn't resist...
I agree, this is a worthy route (and will only get better). Kudos to the FA's. The 8th pitch "Tower of Bliss" is one of the best pitches I've done in the Wasatch! Although there is still lots of cleaning and trailwork needed, this isn't really too bad of an "adventure" climb (i.e. no epics in the Wasatch).

Craig, the beta is above but here is my take on the ratings:
P1 = 5.8ish maybe .9 w/a little bit of ez run out
P2 = .9/maybe ez .10 (one steepish series of moves and several tricky mantles)
P3 = .7 corner to slab
P4 = ~60 ft. of ez slab (unrope)
P5 = "the Puke pitch" .9+/.10 really not that hard, just awkward, physical, and exposed
P6 = ez chimney/ramp to .7ish slab
P7 = "420 pitch" .8ish slab to .9/.10ish finger crack
p8 = .9/.10ish slab and arete climbing w/ some thin gear at crux

IMO P5 and P8 are the crux pitches w/ P7 being on par...
I am a bit weary of pegging a decisive rating for a few reasons, a) there is still tons of cleaning (i.e. lots of lichen and dirt) b) approachies

OH, we bailed directly off the top of P8 due West in two long double rope raps! not sure if it was any easier than rapping back to 4:20 ledge and then 2 shorter raps to top of gully but...the terrain sure was sweet! Jul 13, 2007
I thought the approach is pretty easy. Just stay further right than you think and the bouldering trails take you to withing 50-60 yards of the route. Bushwhack straight up to the base of the cliff and walk 20 feet right to the beginning dihedral. 15-20 minutes without a lot of hustle.

I'll bring a small brush with me next time. and mabe some loppers. Jul 13, 2007
garyw   ut
the rap from the 420 ledge is two single 70m with good rap anchors.traverse from ledge north a little. we have a few more lines to put up yet... thanks guys Jul 14, 2007
J Foote
J Foote   SLC
Glad to hear everyone has been enjoying the route and yes it does need a lot of cleaning, we've done a ton but much more is needed. Glens ratings seemed right on to me, it seems to get easier with every cleaning. Don't be afraid to bring some tools and do a little work. Enjoy!

Jason Jul 19, 2007
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10 PG13
Boissal .   Small Lake, UT
  5.10 PG13
Fun albeit slightly gripping route not to be done in the heat of the summer as it features a bunch of slabbing and it's in the sun the whole way (except for belays, but wtf happened to north facing stuff being in the shade). It will definitely get 3 stars once it cleans up more, there's still a bunch of moss, lichen, exfoliating granite, and hollow sounding stuff. Great adventure though...

I thought P2 suffered a bit from wandering and rope drag (my own fault) and had some hard moves at the bolts (mid .10) with exciting mantels.
P3 is quite the committing slab with well spaced bolts and a bit of moss/lichen.
P5 was rightfully named, the pro is thin the whole way with unique moves and enough air under your ass to turn you green. Good things there are solid shrubs to sling for bomber pro. Don't run it out at the end like I did or your second is looking at a nasty swing.
The finger crack on P7 is stellar, too bad it's so short.
The tower of bliss is really unique, getting to the arete is a bit runout on a greasy day then the climbing is airy to the top with tricky gear at the crux.
The descent is surprisingly short for an 8 pitcher, although the river bed you're hiking in is full of huge unstable boulders that will roll and try to crush you. Jun 16, 2008
Beata P
  5.10 PG13
Beata P  
  5.10 PG13
Climbed this route yesterday. Totally worth doing.

Left behind #4 cam on "puke" pitch. If anyone somehow take it out and will decide to give it back to owner -please contact me.

Still needs more traffic. Trail that takes you there except last bit looks pretty good as long as you know when to start ;)

Loved "puke" pitch and final tower of bliss.
Also agree that P2 felt harder than 5.9 , P5 maybe 9+ (so much fun), P8 not too hard just airy until exciting crux (.10).

Oh and the anchors on last pitch might need some change to be done, tree with the slings around it looks pretty dead. Sep 17, 2016
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
The rappel drops you into the Shambala Wall. Year of the Pig and Red Moon Phase are both worth doing while you're there.

The #4 is still there, probably bring a hammer if you really want it back. Oct 21, 2017
Kirk Hilton
  5.10a/b PG13
Kirk Hilton  
  5.10a/b PG13
P1: Aim for the large dead tree straight above the first roof after clipping the bolt. Chain anchors are just out of sight. 5.9 bold start.
P2: Clip a pin, then 2 closely spaced bolts. Watch out for the hollow flake in the corner as you pull the harder 5.9+/10a move or two. Stay slightly LEFT atop the steepness (the Granite Guide topo depicts a slight right, which is incorrect) to clip the next bolt(s). Fun mantle move at the end. Belay on a nice ledge.
P3 and P4: Easy 5.7 on P3 and you can link P3 and P4 with a 70m. P4 is easy 4th class slab (little to no pro) up to some bolted rap anchors.
P5: Step up and right on to the first tier of ledges and follow that first shallow corner/dihedral all the way up. Anchors are just inside the "notch" on the left after you make the "puke" moves. 5.9 moves, fun climbing. PROTECT YOUR SECOND FROM SERIOUS SWINGING/DECKING POTENTIAL AS YOU MAKE YOUR WAY UP AND LEFT IN THE SHALLOW DIHEDRAL. THIS PITCH TRAVERSES LEFT AT A SLOW BUT STEADY ANGLE.
P6: Up the gully and step right into the bushes. Once in the bushes head up and slightly left to gain the slab. A few bolts lands you at another bushy corner.
P7: We moved the belay from the top of P6 through the bushes and dirty steep corner and solo'd 8 feet or so up the slab (easy 5.2 moves) to the giant pine tree on the right side of the slab (comfortable belay). Clip 2 bolts, wrestle a tree as you pull up and right to gain the ledge before the finger crack. FUN climbing for the last 15-20 feet as you battle the barn door. Be careful building your anchor at the top of this pitch. Bolts could really be used, but there are none. I used 2 separate smaller trees up and on the left side of the ledge. Multiple options exist, but you've got to be creative. 5.10a
P8: Fun slab moves as you move up and right towards the arete. Stay on the left side of the arete to keep it 5.10 or step over and on to the right for 5.7 moves until you gain the lie-back up top which goes at about 5.9. THE TREE AT THE TOP IS COMPLETELY DEAD. SCARIEST RAP I'VE DONE IN YEARS.

Descent: Using a 70m we rapped directly to the west 50' or so using the dead tree and some back-up slings around the sketchy and loose blocks/flakes. From the maple tree we rapped down the corner on the left as you look down towards the next giant pine 80-100' below, (tat looks pretty old on the pine tree). From the pine tree rap another 80-100 feet to bolted anchors on the slab. 1 more rap puts you on the ground. Head back down the main wash for a ways then bushwhack back to the base. Good luck! Aug 22, 2018
johnny utah
Salt Lake City
  5.10a PG13
johnny utah   Salt Lake City
  5.10a PG13
We replaced the 'summit' anchor today with a two point fixed anchor. We only had one bolt with us so there is a bolt and a drilled angle. Its solid but if someone was so inclined to add another bolt at some point I wouldn't be offended. Also, the anchor is equalized straight down (where a single 70m rope will get you down in three raps via a big pine and Shambala Wall) and not back toward 420 ledge. The bush anchor is now gone. Aug 25, 2018