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Paradise

5.9, Sport, 115 ft,  Avg: 3 from 77 votes
FA: 4/2001, Greg Barnes, John Aughinbaugh
California > Sierra Eastside > Bishop Area > Owens River Gorge > Central Gorge > Banana Belt
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

Chimney in corner leads to nice jams and stems past a steep section. After that, enjoyable face climbing continues to the anchors.

Location

The belayer needs to be on the ledge for this one. It's possible to lower to the ledge with a 70m rope, otherwise, lower to the anchors of "Monsters of Rock", then lower or rap from there.

Protection

12 bolts

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Comfortable stance for clipping the third bolt. Photo by Oleg Ace.
[Hide Photo] Comfortable stance for clipping the third bolt. Photo by Oleg Ace.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

J tot
Tempe, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Measured from the start of the dihedral this route isn't quite 115 feet (I believe). My belayer, standing right at the start of the dihedral, had enough rope to lower me safely on a 60M rope. Mar 14, 2010
[Hide Comment] Some friends and I literally stretched our 70m in order to belay from and lower all the way to the ground...left our rope thru the Paradise anchors and added a directional at MOR anchors in order to TR that route. Oct 8, 2010
Pushkar S
San Jose, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Definitely needs a 70m rope. Nov 4, 2013
MisterE Wolfe
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Replaced the steel oval 'biners at the anchors today with hardened steel Fixe Draco's.

Thanks ASCA! Nov 14, 2015
crimsonraen
  5.9
[Hide Comment] The new bolts are both in great condition, but one of the hangers is pretty loose. (It seems fine for now though; just loose) Thanks for replacing them, MisterE! I'm the one you told about them on saturday. ha Nov 17, 2015