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Cool Hand Luke

5.6 PG13, Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 40 votes
FA: unknown
New York > Gunks > Peterskill > j. Scrotum Pole/Drive…

Description

Climb obvious offwidth and face above. Two cruxes - first ten feet, and half-way up the face (long reach on iffy holds).

Location

Left of the detached pillar is a flat wall with an obvious offwidth crack at the bottom, a blank face above, and a corner system above that. Climb the obvious offwidth, through the face, and up through the corner system. 4th-class scramble up to top of cliff, or careful 3rd-class traverse on ledge (right) to easier walk-off.

Protection

PG pro. Tricky to place. Gear anchor at top.

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Cool Hand Luke
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Looking up Cool Hand on a cloudy day.
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I would say the pro isn't tricky to place if have small tri-cams and C3's or equivalent. Nov 14, 2008
Michael _
  5.6
[Hide Comment] pro was fine. Jul 26, 2010
IJMayer
Guemes Island, WA
[Hide Comment] probably PG Mar 25, 2011
Phredward
Brooklyn, NY
[Hide Comment] If you're setting a TR anchor from above, a long static line will be helpful for keeping you anchored to something while scrambling down to the top of the route. We set the anchor just climber's right of the nose of the triangle at the top of the route.

We started the climb just to the right of the crack at the bottom, then stepping into the crack. Aug 29, 2016
David K
The Road, Sometimes Chattan…
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Pro was fine, but it was tricky enough to place that I chose to run it out instead in a few spots. If you're not comfortable with the grade, placing the gear will be challenging.

Very fun route, competitor with Genuflect for the best lead at the grade in Peterskill. Jul 9, 2018
[Hide Comment] a friend trad lead this climb, i went to follow sport and fell, breaking my leg, right before clipping into the first clip. the first 10 feet is definitely the crux of the climb. Sep 2, 2019