Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Mike Lawson, Bobbi Bensman, 1980s
Page Views: 798 total · 5/month
Shared By: Greg Barnes on Dec 12, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The original route up the north side of the "dome", very runout, but partially retrobolted by one of the modern routes. Take the middle of the face to a single bolt 35' up, then trend right to an old rusty 1/4" bolt which is only 3' from a modern bolt on "Muffy". Then climb past the last bolts on Muffy and its anchor, to 2 more bolts among loose plates on the way to the summit. Very easy to start Muffy and finish this route to get to the summit. All bolts replaced except the one only 3' from a new bolt, 11/03.

Location

The middle of the north face, then trend right.

Protection

4 bolts, nuts and slings for plates, and more bolts to clip if you don't deliberately skip them. 3-bolt anchor (1 on top, 2 just over the edge), 60/90' rap (90' to ground, 60' to ledge that requires 3rd-class descent to the south).

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Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
This thing is sort of a mess... the runout to the first bolt is not that bad but don’t fall. I ended up going up and eventually moved left to the last bolt and anchor of Spot. The old button head bolt out right near the real bolts on Muffy is a joke. If you just want a nice runout to get you ready for your day, clip the first bolt that is way up there then veer right or left until you are on top of either real anchor and just lower. The remainder of the route to the top out is scabby. Nice view though if you are into that sort of thing. Nov 7, 2018