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Routes in Kyle's Tower

1950 DA T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: Sam Lightner
Page Views: 570 total, 4/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Dec 12, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The biggest plus to this route are that it gets to the top of Kyle's Tower and it's in the sun in winter.

Start on the offwidth corner at the western edge of the tower where it meets the main wall. Climb up about 15 feet, then traverse right to another crack that is slightly lower in angle. Climb past a large flake in the crack that will eventually come out and kill someone. Move up over the ledge, then into the chimney that is the mirror of the Beyer Route on the south face. Proceed up this, groveling and pushing, till you reach the summit. There is a good anchor here.

Most of this route is too wide to get pro, but too thin to get in.... and there is loose rock... Yeah, why did I do it!

The start doesn't look it, but it's 5.10. Just after the ledge it's 5.10 as well, but at least there you can get in one piece of hand-sized gear.

BTW, for all I know this was the FA route of the tower done by some offwidth master from the '60s, but I saw no sign of it. Let me know if so.

Location

This is the corner on the west face of the tower. It leads to the chimney that is the mirror of the Beyer/Copeland/Spitzer route on the south side.

Protection

Not much. You are either chimneying or offwidthing, so it's really wide. I did get a hand-sized piece in the upper chimney, and a .75 Friend fits in behind the "1950 DA" flake (Google that if you don't know about 1950 DA). Other than that, you could bring a few of those really, really, big chimney-size Big Bros, but that's about it.

Photos

Patrick Betts
  5.10 R
Patrick Betts  
  5.10 R
Definitely not as bad as the description makes it sound and not nearly run out. There are 5 bolts on the climb. You do have to climb the 5.9 OW at the bottom for 10-15 feet with no gear then traverse over (on very easy terrain) with no gear. But after that the climb is pretty well protected for a chimney. 3 bolts at the crux OW/Squeeze section in the middle one more on 4th class terrain then the last comes in the chimney to the anchors. Definitely loose and sandy in spots but I found Abraxis Tower to be a harder and more sustained climb than this one, albeit better protected.

Take singles to 3 and 5 quickdraws and you'll be more than set. 40m from the anchor to the ground. Mar 17, 2017