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Early Access
Routes in 3. Painted Walls Ice Climbs
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Painted Wall Icicle, The WI5+ M9 |
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Way in the Wilderness WI5 |
| Type: | Ice, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 44.02346, -71.25277 |
| FA: | Jim Dunn, Michael Harttrich, Peter Cole, Feb 1978 |
| Page Views: | 5,560 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Kris Gorny on Dec 12, 2006 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
Go up the steep ice until you reach the ledge in a cave behind vertical ice. Set up a belay there (old pitons and slings).
Pitch 2: Leave the ledge and commit to the vertical and detached ice pillar (crux). The ice eventually angles down into a shute between the rocks. Follow the shute all the way up. Rap from slings around a large tree.
When ice conditions are poor, do not place screws at the start of pitch 2 until you're above the detached pillar. This would limit chances of ripping the belay on top of pitch 1 should the pillar collapse.
Location
Route is located on the Painted Walls. The sun hits it early so the ice conditions may deteriorate fast during a sunny day. Pat McCarthy and I climbed in in March, 2005. It was warm and we were concerned pitch 2 could come down with us on it. By the time we finished the climb we were soaked. It was well worth it though.
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