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Routes in Painted Walls Ice Climbs

Painted Wall Icicle, The WI5+ M9
Way in the Wilderness WI5
Type: Ice, 150 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim Dunn, Michael Harttrich, Peter Cole, Feb 1978
Page Views: 2,820 total, 21/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Dec 12, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: Go up the steep ice until you reach the ledge in a cave behind vertical ice. Set up a belay there (old pitons and slings).
Pitch 2: Leave the ledge and commit to the vertical and detached ice pillar (crux). The ice eventually angles down into a shute between the rocks. Follow the shute all the way up. Rap from slings around a large tree.

When ice conditions are poor, do not place screws at the start of pitch 2 until you're above the detached pillar. This would limit chances of ripping the belay on top of pitch 1 should the pillar collapse.

Location

Route is located on the Painted Walls. The sun hits it early so the ice conditions may deteriorate fast during a sunny day. Pat McCarthy and I climbed in in March, 2005. It was warm and we were concerned pitch 2 could come down with us on it. By the time we finished the climb we were soaked. It was well worth it though.

Protection

Ice screws.

Photos

Chris Hillios
Newburyport, MA
 
Chris Hillios   Newburyport, MA
 
This climb can also be done as a long single pitch.

Also, when we did it last year (Dec. 2006). You could climb behind the column.

Don't get on this if it is sunny. A party went up after us and we stuck around (and left our ropes up in case of a needed rescue) ... There are some hangers up above the climb that you don't see from the ground. ... these see sun before the rest of the cliff and were streaming down by mid day.

Have fun on this Super classic! Feb 15, 2008