Type: Ice, 150 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim Dunn, Michael Harttrich, Peter Cole, Feb 1978
Page Views: 3,671 total · 23/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Dec 12, 2006
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: Go up the steep ice until you reach the ledge in a cave behind vertical ice. Set up a belay there (old pitons and slings).
Pitch 2: Leave the ledge and commit to the vertical and detached ice pillar (crux). The ice eventually angles down into a shute between the rocks. Follow the shute all the way up. Rap from slings around a large tree.

When ice conditions are poor, do not place screws at the start of pitch 2 until you're above the detached pillar. This would limit chances of ripping the belay on top of pitch 1 should the pillar collapse.

Location

Route is located on the Painted Walls. The sun hits it early so the ice conditions may deteriorate fast during a sunny day. Pat McCarthy and I climbed in in March, 2005. It was warm and we were concerned pitch 2 could come down with us on it. By the time we finished the climb we were soaked. It was well worth it though.

Protection

Ice screws.

Photos