The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if it can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure, spread the word and please do not attempt to drive through the private ranch.
Description
This ultra-bouldery route is the hardest on the main ET cliff band, and 2nd hardest in the area, behind the classic Child of Light. The route begins in the dihedral on the right end of the Frog Prince wall at an orange bolt hanger. Easy (11+?) pockets head up to a point where the wall really steepens to near-horizontal. At this point, the crux begins with a powerful lock-off, to an undercling, to set up for the crux dyno to a 2 finger pocket over the lip. Apparently there are two potential sequences here, that involve dyno-ing with either the left or right hand (I went left). Above the lip, easy moves lead to the chains.
Variously sources over the years have described this route as up to 13c/d. There are also rumors that this route has been chipped since its first ascent. Perhaps the difficulty has changed over time, but as of the fall of 2003, this route was no harder than 13b. I've heard it described as V8, which might be appropriate from ground to chains, but the crux itself is likely no harder than V6. I would describe it as 12a to V6. In any case, this is 13b by NM standards, and all that that implies.
Location
Far right end of 'steep' part of Frog Prince wall. Begins in the dihedral.
[Hide Photo] Common occurrence for me on this route. I only ever fell on this move, and I climbed to the top the first time I caught it, but I missed that pocket A LOT of times.
[Hide Comment] The lock-off just before the crux of this route gave me elbow tendonitis in my left arm. Since this is basically a one-move wonder, when working the route you're basically obliged to repeat the 'one-move' over and over. It took me more than 6 months to recover from it.
Dec 10, 2006
[Hide Comment] Alternate less powerful and maybe less tendonitis causing beta for the crux. May only work for shorter climbers.
From the clipping jug below the crux, go left hand for a bad 4 finger pocket. Get a deep drop knee with the right foot, almost touching your right hand, allowing the right hand to get the undercling. Hit the left pocket over the lip with the left hand.
Also the right 2 finger pocket above the lip has been rumored to have been improved throughout the years. So if looking for a "natural" holds send, use the left pocket.
May 27, 2008
[Hide Comment] For what it may or may not be worth I found alternate semi-static beta that doesn't use the undercling but still goes left. I got the bad 4-finger pocket with my left, set the deep drop knee and crossed right hand to a fairly deep, but hard to hit two-finger pocket just below the lip and then cut and reset my feet to cross again left hand to the pocket over the lip. It felt easier to do it this way, but the boulder problem still felt at least V7 to me.
Jul 27, 2014
[Hide Comment] Lee Sheftel and I added this variation to Red Queen. We liked that it is a bit more direct and the moves at the bottom are pretty fun.
Apr 23, 2018
[Hide Comment] Long overdue comment, but for what it’s worth, this route took me significantly more tries than any 13b I’ve done in New Mexico. Maybe I was using bad tall-man beta, but I missed the throw to the pocket over the lip SO many times on the go (see photo). Overall, I’m a big fan of this route, and I think the crux is brilliantly fun when you catch the pocket. Climbs sorta like a Wild Iris route.
I installed a perma-draw on the lower face to assist in cleaning and avoid the death swing into the tree for the unassuming future climber.
Nov 24, 2021
Access Issue: Thompson Canyon
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Morrison, CO
Denver, CO
From the clipping jug below the crux, go left hand for a bad 4 finger pocket. Get a deep drop knee with the right foot, almost touching your right hand, allowing the right hand to get the undercling. Hit the left pocket over the lip with the left hand.
Also the right 2 finger pocket above the lip has been rumored to have been improved throughout the years. So if looking for a "natural" holds send, use the left pocket. May 27, 2008
San Mateo, CA
Albuquerque, NM
I installed a perma-draw on the lower face to assist in cleaning and avoid the death swing into the tree for the unassuming future climber. Nov 24, 2021