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Frog Prince (a.k.a. Babies)

5.12a, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 39 votes
FA: John Duran, 1990
New Mexico > Enchanted Tower > Frog Prince
Warning Access Issue: Thompson Canyon DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a fun route on great rock. If its length were reasonable, the route would be 4 stars. The hardest moves are stepping off the ledge at the base, so have a stick clip or a spotter. This route heads up and slightly right, on steadily improving holds. With no real rests until the anchor, this is a typical ET mad-dash for the chains.

Location

This is the second route from the left on the 'super steep' section of the Frog Prince wall. Its also the 3rd route from the left of the overhanging dihedral.

Protection

Two bolts with hangers to start then three bolts with fixed chain draws to the anchor. Stick clip recommended.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mike on Frog Prince near the top.
[Hide Photo] Mike on Frog Prince near the top.
Inspecting the bolt prior to reinstalling.
[Hide Photo] Inspecting the bolt prior to reinstalling.
James Hunter on Frog Prince (aka Babies). July 12, 2009.
[Hide Photo] James Hunter on Frog Prince (aka Babies). July 12, 2009.
Loose bolt (now replaced) on Frog Prince (aka Babies).
[Hide Photo] Loose bolt (now replaced) on Frog Prince (aka Babies).
Topping out on Frog Prince.
[Hide Photo] Topping out on Frog Prince.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

jbak x
tucson, az
 
[Hide Comment] It's hard for me to give three stars to a 29 foot route, but they are deserved in this case. Jan 8, 2007
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
[Hide Comment] D. Jackson's Rock Climbing NM guide shows this route terminating at the anchors for Gollum, but I believe this is incorrect (certainly a possibility though). Instead, continue past three more fixed draws angling up and right. Jul 12, 2009
Pat Mac
Bishop, CA
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Rather short. Mar 9, 2010
Andrew Ellis
Taos, NM
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I don't know why you would short-change this route. Actual length is just over 40 feet of climbing when you take into account the angle of it. Fantastic movement on bomber rock. I found the difficulty rather continuous with three cruxy spots. Kicked my ass the first time around, but so excited to come back and work it. Probably deserves just shy of 4 stars, and would likely get them if it were anywhere else in NM but the tower. May 6, 2018