Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bob Kamps, TM Herbert, Don Wilson 1959 FFA: R. Hardwick, S. Baxter, L. Coats, G. Douglass 1977
Page Views: 1,439 total · 8/month
Shared By: Kole DeCou on Dec 10, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

The only route on one of the most prominent features in Sedona. Classic climbing but very runout. The crux is well protected, but there are potential bone-breaking falls on 5.9-ish terrain. Bloom's book says to stick clip the first bolt, but I really can't see how this would help since getting to the first bolt is no big deal and the climbing doesn't get runout until after the crux bulge.

Pitch 1: 5.7 100' from the ledge scramble up a series of ledges towards the big chimney. Belay at the base of the chimney.

Pitch 2: 5.8 100' Up the chimney to a 2 bolt belay.

Pitch 3: 5.11- R 150' The business. Belay/spot from the little pinnacle on the ledge. Climb the face to a bulge (crux). After the crux the climb is very runout and sustained 5.9. Unless you get gear in some funky pockets after the corner there is a 100' fall potential from the top of the pitch. Hand-sized tricams or a #2 Camalot might work here. No promises since I didn't have either.

Location

Approach: Same as Queen Victoria. From the notch between Pointed Dome and Queen Vic, follow a ledge system on the south face of Pointed Dome (30' above the ground). Belay from this ledge.

Protection

Nuts, 1 set cams to #4 Camalot. Big tricams for pockets (hand sized). For pitch 2 just bring nuts, a #1 and #2 Camalot, and tricams.

Photos