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(12) Oh Yeah, That Snake!

5.9, Trad, 170 ft (52 m),  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: JMw, PW
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 1 - Lower Highway > Stonewall (aka Airme…

Description

Climb crack past tree on small ledge into chimney with hidden layback crack. Up thru crack in bulge. Final section is chimney with short squeeze. Belay on ledge at tree. If you have 50M ropes-- plenty of spots to belay for a second pitch.

Location

About 100’ around the corner from “ACOS”, on the north face, is a long crack system. Start just left and under a huge, tongue-like block of rock, in the crack. 170’ of jamming, stemming, liebacking, and chimneying on surprisingly good rock.

To descend: Scramble up and left about 30’ past trees to a ledge with 2-bolt rap. (From the base, this ledge looks like a large pointed roof) 60M doubles will just reach ground. 50M’s will probably get you into the climb where you could probably set up a rap off a tree.

Protection

Include double cams to 3.0. A #4.0 is handy.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Kevin McGarvey at the crux bulge.
[Hide Photo] Kevin McGarvey at the crux bulge.
Note pointed roof that rap is on top of.
[Hide Photo] Note pointed roof that rap is on top of.