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Routes in Stonewall (aka Airmen Peak)

(01) Chicken Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
(02) Pin There, Done That? T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
(03) Squeeze Me T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
(04) Pardon Me While I Stem T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
(05) Stoner Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
(06) Pagoda Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(07) Cody Wasn't Here T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
(08) Flyboys T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(09) Chimney Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
(10) Stembrosia T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
(11) A Comedy of Scarers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
(12) Oh Yeah, That Snake! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sweet Sarah T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Why Wouldn'tya? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: JFx, JMw
Page Views: 411 total · 3/month
Shared By: JMayhew on Dec 10, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

1. Jam crack, then stem past rotten section to base of chimney and belay off gear. (5.10b) We used a #6 friend to protect the rotten section—probably not absolutely necessary, but other gear might not be that good. (The chimney can be climbed (5.6) as a direct ending within the 1st pitch.)

2. Angle left to dihedral, up and out roof to large ledge. 2 bolts on face finish up to 2-bolt belay/rap station. (5.9+) If you have too much drag, you can belay on ledge and finish face as a quick 3rd pitch.

Location

If not for the 15’ of nasty rock, this would be a classic. Strenuous hand/fist jamming leads to a clean layback, then underclinging out a roof.
Further along the east face from “Stembrosia,” scramble down a short bulge and around the corner to the NE corner of the formation. 2 cracks head up to a chimney. A large roof can be seen to the left of the chimney. Start in the right crack.
Rap route with double ropes (50 M's OK)

If you scramble up to ledge past anchors, a quick belay back to anchors would be prudent

Protection

Include double cams to 3.5, toss a 4.0 on, too.

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