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Routes in Heart Wall

Aorta T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Corner Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Heart Attack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Meteor Shower T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Brian Smoot, Hank Armantrout, Les Ellison, 1983
Page Views: 85 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Dec 9, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Easy climbing leads to a sandy ledge where the routes diverge. With some interesting moves, you gain an even larger, sandy ledge where the dihedral begins. From here, the climb sews up nicely, making for a speedy ascent. It is more of a face climb here than a crack climb. This route may have gotten its name from some of the loose rock that surprises your belayer. The crux is a small roof pull (5.7) followed by a short traverse to the Heart Attack (5.4) exit. If you don't figure out the moves here, you might mumble something about bags full of sand. Note: the Ruckman guide rates Meteor Shower as 5.8.

Location

All routes on the Heart Wall share the same easy start directly under the big, right-facing dihedral. Meteor Shower climbs the dihedral. Walk off to the west between the Heart and Guano Walls.

Protection

Standard rack, doubles of red and gold camalots are nice. A #4 camalot protects the crux. No fixed gear; no anchors at the top.

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