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Routes in Eagle Wall

420 S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Afterburner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Alta Ruta S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Amazing Thailand S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ann's First Time S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Australian Invasion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Balance Crack S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dead Spanish Bolts S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Desayuno de Nono S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Easy A S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost in Space S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Made In Spain S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Out of Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spiderman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Totem Pole S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Where Eagles Don't Dare S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer
Page Views: 619 total, 5/month
Shared By: Dave Holliday on Dec 9, 2006
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

This is a very cool-looking feature, but unfortunately the climbing is only average quality. The rock is reminiscent of that found on crags by the water (interesting looking tufas and slippery). The crux comes at about 60 feet up and is protected by an expansion bolt. Don't fall there! Once past the crux at the top of the pillar, there is another clip before the anchor.

Location

Totem Pole is the first route you encounter on the hike to Eagle Wall. It's a pillar that is attached to the main wall at about fifty feet up.

Protection

Bolts and slings. About twelve clips. There's a rappel anchor at the top. There's an expansion bolt at the crux. All the other bolts are glue-ins.

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
All of the slings, the bolt, and the anchor have been chopped from this route. Feb 9, 2014
Clayton Rardon
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Clayton Rardon   Yucca Valley, CA
 
when I was there in 12/2007 the route was very polished and the slings all needed to be replaced, as do the anchors. I don't think I'd recommend the line to anyone until then. But in all a neat route. Dec 28, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
My notes indicate to bring at least 12 draws as the route as it extendeds beyond the totem pole to the anchors. I believe that the FA was Paul Turecki & Kirsten Kremer in 12/98.

Even with the slick rock that Dave described, I'd say it's a must do if you're in the area. The formation is cool.

~Susan Oct 19, 2007