PRINT: Rock Climb Panning for Gold, San Bernardino Mountains

Panning for Gold

5.10b, Sport, Alpine, 35 ft (11 m),

Avg: 2.2 from 59 votes
FA: (TR) Chris Miller & Tim Fearn, 1990; First Lead: Chris Miller, Sean Godwin & Nathan Fitzhugh, May 2002
California > San Bernardino… > Big Bear Lake Area > Big Bear North > Big Bear City Area > Holcomb Valley… > Central Pinnacles > Motherlode Rock > Motherlode Rock - W Face

Access Issue: Road Closure in Effect Details

SR 38
[IN THE SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA AREA]
Is closed from 0.2 mi east of Angelus Oaks /at Mill Creek Rd/ to 4.6 mi east of Angelus Oaks /at Hill Ranch Rd/ (San Bernardino Co) - Due to mudslide - Motorists are advised to use an alternate route

Description

Tricky moves up slanting edges gain a stance below a bulging face with a 3 inch vertical dike system running up it. Power out the bulge and continue up the staircase dike to anchors on a ledge.

Although on the short side, this fun route features a variety of moves with a memorable finish.

Location

Furthest right bolted route on the wall and just right of Whiskeroo.

Protection

4 bolts, chain anchors
(all bolts 1/2" SS)

* Bolts replaced 2019

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Joel on Panning for Gold (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Panning for Gold (5.10b), Holcomb Valley Pinnacles

Dan rappelling and cleaning up after a successful lead

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MAR

5.10c

This is the scariest 5.10b lead I have done at Holcomb, and the moves over the bulge (from 1st-2nd clip) would make me rate it a 5.10c. The exposure (and potential ledge fall) from the third clip is heady. Be careful. A spotter for the first clip is a must. That said, the movement on this route is excellent and varied. Enjoy...and if you choose to top rope instead of lead, set a directional off the fourth bolt to minimize your swing. Jun 15, 2010

Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Natick, MA

Fun climb with a variety of power moves, high steps, and tricky body position through the slanted chimney/roof.

Clipped the 3rd bolt on the roof but swung out to the right to climb over the bulge and to the top. Aug 22, 2010

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake

5.10b

Opening moves are nice, strenuous, yet technical too, with a surprise element of balance. May 20, 2012

Erin
Sherman Oaks, CA

REALLY FUN ROUTE... opening moves to the first bolt are bouldery but FUN! To me the crux is getting over your first bolt. A little balancy and committing (especially for a 10b) but the FUN the rest of the way! Jun 10, 2013

Sean Haynes
Los Angeles

5.10b

The crux of this climb is definitely getting passed the 1st bolt. Get your hands wide so you can bring you feet up the center and take off. Once you reach the 3rd bolt, its a cake walk. Great route that deserves more attention. May 22, 2017