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Routes in Motherlode Rock - West Face

Funkadelia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Showers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Good Day for a Hangin' S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Highgrader S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Arm of The Law S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mighty Quinn S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Panning for Gold S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reach for the Sky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stake Your Claim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiskeroo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: (TR) Chris Miller & Tim Fearn, 1990, FL: Chris Miller, Sean Godwin & Nathan Fitzhugh, May 2002
Page Views: 1,201 total, 9/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 8, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Tricky moves up slanting edges gain a stance below a bulging face with a 3" vertical dike system running up it. Power out the bulge and continue up the staircased dike to anchors on a ledge.

Althought on the short side, this fun route features a variety of moves on mostly quality rock with a memorable finish up the dike.

Location

Furthest right bolted route on the wall and just right of Whiskeroo.

Protection

4 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

Sean Haynes
  5.10b
Sean Haynes  
  5.10b
The crux of this climb is definitely getting passed the 1st bolt. Get your hands wide so you can bring you feet up the center and take off. Once you reach the 3rd bolt, its a cake walk. Great route that deserves more attention. May 22, 2017
Erin
Sherman Oaks, CA
 
Erin   Sherman Oaks, CA
 
REALLY FUN ROUTE... opening moves to the first bolt are bouldery but FUN! To me the crux is getting over your first bolt. A little balancy and committing (especially for a 10b) but the FUN the rest of the way! Jun 10, 2013
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
Opening moves are nice, strenuous, yet technical too, with a surprise element of balance. May 20, 2012
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
 
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
 
Fun climb with a variety of power moves, high steps, and tricky body position through the slanted chimney/roof.

Clipped the 3rd bolt on the roof but swung out to the right to climb over the bulge and to the top. Aug 22, 2010
MAR
  5.10c
MAR  
  5.10c
This is the scariest 5.10b lead I have done at Holcomb, and the moves over the bulge (from 1st-2nd clip) would make me rate it a 5.10c. The exposure (and potential ledge fall) from the third clip is heady. Be careful. A spotter for the first clip is a must. That said, the movement on this route is excellent and varied. Enjoy...and if you choose to top rope instead of lead, set a directional off the fourth bolt to minimize your swing. Jun 15, 2010