Avg: 3.7 from 14 votes
|Type:||Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Felix Knauth, John Whitmer June 1958|
|Page Views:||5,946 total · 34/month|
|Shared By:||Kris Gorny on Dec 6, 2006|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen|
We climbed Mendel Couloir in July 2005. At that time the ice was thin and plating. The upper pitches consisted, to a large degree, of loose boulders marginally bound by thin ice, making climbing very unnerving.
Make sure to clear the lower sections of the route early, before sun hits the summit -- we did not and found ourselves in a midst of frequent rockfall. Once above the bulge, retreat could be difficult, and could turn into an epic.
Rumour has it that global climate change affected ice conditions on Mendel. As a result, the neighboring Ice Nine very rarely comes in. We eyed it and there was ice leading to the steep chimney at the entrance to the couloir but we didn't see any ice above that.
Descent: From the summit of Mt. Mendel follow the ridge towards Mt. Darwin for about 200 yards. Locate a left hand side gully marked with a cairn. Exposed class 4 ledges and three raps from old slings lead to the base of the mountain. Finding the gully and decending was not trivial and we were racing the sunset. Didn't want to find out what it's like in the dark.