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Routes in The Right Bunker

Abacus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bottled Up Warrior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dummkopf S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ethnic Cleansing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gas Chamber S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Kill or be Killed S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Lynn's Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Something's Always Wrong S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Eddie Whittemore, 1993
Page Views: 4,549 total, 34/month
Shared By: FCJohn on Dec 4, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Description

Outstanding Foster Falls test piece at the grade. Moderate 5.11 climbing leads to one distinct dyno (a static move for climbers over 6 ft) crux with strenuous climbing until you reach the chain anchor.

Location

On the right side of the Right Bunker.

Protection

Six Bolts to a chain anchor

Photos

Alex Willis
Marietta, Georgia
Alex Willis   Marietta, Georgia
Replaced the runner on the second bolt last weekend, old one was in pretty bad shape. The quick link on the bolt protecting the dyno won't hold many more whips, it's been sawed in half by the bolt hanger! Didn't have the time to replace the link but left a quick draw there. Nov 12, 2017
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.12a
Fun circus route. Just a thought on the grade...and this is just my opinion. Very soft 12a. If you figure out the bottom it's not very hard. The "jump" move is not very tricky if you can figure out how to match on slopers. The finish is the only real climbing. So 5.11 to sit down rest, to V2 to a good shake to a V3 finish...no harder than 12a, almost put 11d but the anchor clip is a bit pumpy. Bottled Up Warrior is much harder than this, especially if you are tall. Mar 6, 2017
Christopher Deal
Fargo, ND
  5.12b
Christopher Deal   Fargo, ND
  5.12b
jamie cummins
  5.12a
jamie cummins  
  5.12a
soft for the grade, one move wonder, if your tall its 11b. Aug 22, 2014
Gable  
The first perma draw needs replacing if someone can let the appropriate people know. The pin/axle holding the gate can and will back out and the cable is fraying from constant rubbing. May 26, 2014
Jeff Mekolites   ATL GA
I believe the recent perma-draw work was done by the Action Fund. Oct 11, 2012
Gregg
Englewood
Gregg   Englewood
Fun route, but no better than 2 stars. Probably 12A. Jul 9, 2008
yevquest
Southeast,US
  5.12a
yevquest   Southeast,US
  5.12a
12a and the worst route in the right bunker. I can only assume its popularity is due to the crazy soft grade that people want to give this route. Abacus and Bottled Up Warrior are so much better and only 30 feet away. Feb 8, 2008
Ryan Johnson
chattanooga tn
Ryan Johnson   chattanooga tn
Ethnic is solid 12b. The 'dyno' is a trick move that is maybe V1. The redpoint crux is usually clipping the chains.

As of 19May2007 both anchor biners are new. May 21, 2007
bbrock
Al
bbrock   Al
I noticed that bolt needs it nut tightened. Maybe a glue in would be better. Yes the consequences of that bolt failing would be about as bad as it gets Mar 24, 2007
426
426  
DCA gives this a 12b/c, but it may be harder since a block at the anchor fell off a few years ago. I think it's solid c.

For me, crux was making the anchor clip.

Could use bolt replacement on crux "spinner". The consequences of that bolt failing could be very dire. Feb 28, 2007