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Routes in Upper Cliff Band

Boya from La Jolla Who Stepped on a Cholla, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
New Age Nightmare S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Whining Dog TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Type: TR, 85 ft
FA: Bill Taylor 7/89
Page Views: 1,182 total, 9/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Dec 4, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This super-fun route climbs the softest stone at Cochiti, which is saying quite a lot. The route was bolted for leading at one time, but the bolts were removed, presumably by hand, when it was determined that the notion of bolts in this rock was just plain crazy. However, the route has recently been resurrected with a new bolted TR anchor. If you can lower yourself to the level of TR-ing, this is a must-do route, and an excellent warmup.

Location

This is the next line left of The Boya.... It climbs the right-most long wall of huge huecos.

Protection

TR or free solo. A bolted anchor exists, just below a large Juniper bush. There is also a fixed rope around the truck of the juniper which should be used to back up the bolted anchor, considering the soft nature of this rock. When climbing, note the gaping holes where the lead bolts used to reside. A 50m rope just barely makes it with rope stretch.

Photos

C Miller   CA  
This route orginally had 9 bolts. Dec 6, 2006