Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft, Grade IV
FA: Ed Cooper, Phil Bartow, Donald Grimlund, and David Nicholson, August 1957
Page Views: 13,181 total · 80/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Dec 4, 2006 with improvements by Nick Sweeney
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

The route climbs the northwest side of Mt. Baker and is delineated by the Roman Nose on the climber's right and serac walls on the left. We climbed it in early May 2006 and the route then had two distinct sections: the lower, which was mostly firm steep snow (up to 50 degrees) and the upper, which was 800 feet of 60-degree ice (AI4, WI3) with little reliable pro. The ice slabs on the upper section formed a giant plate, about an inch thick, covering the wet snow underneath. It was "fun" to climb but the overall stability of the ice was questionable. We simul-climbed the lower section and pitched it out on the upper. Just below the second rock band (topo pic #2) the belays were set with some ice screws. Once on the steep ice the belays were set with pickets punched through the ice layer. There were two shrund crossings on the route (topo pic #2) and some signs of avalanche activity. Descent via Coleman-Deming route.

References:
"Cascade Alpine Guide" Vol. 3 (Rainy Pass to Fraser River), Fred Beckey
"Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes", Jeff Smoot

For additional info and updated route conditions check cascadeclimbers.com

Protection

4 snow pickets, 5 ice screws, long runners, pair of ice tools/climber

Photos