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Routes in Mt. Baker

Boulder-Park Cleaver Mod. Snow
Cockscomb Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 PG13
Coleman Headwall AI4 Steep Snow
Coleman/Deming Glacier Mod. Snow
Colman Ski Descent Easy Snow PG13
Easton Glacier Easy Snow
North Ridge WI2-3 Steep Snow
Squak Glacier Easy Snow
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Type: Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft, Grade IV
FA: Ed Cooper, Phil Bartow, Donald Grimlund, and David Nicholson, August 1957
Page Views: 10,375 total · 72/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Dec 4, 2006 with updates from Nick Sweeney
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The route climbs the northwest side of Mt. Baker and is delineated by the Roman Nose on the climber's right and serac walls on the left. We climbed it in early May 2006 and the route then had two distinct sections: the lower, which was mostly firm steep snow (up to 50 degrees) and the upper, which was 800 feet of 60-degree ice (AI4, WI3) with little reliable pro. The ice slabs on the upper section formed a giant plate, about an inch thick, covering the wet snow underneath. It was "fun" to climb but the overall stability of the ice was questionable. We simul-climbed the lower section and pitched it out on the upper. Just below the second rock band (topo pic #2) the belays were set with some ice screws. Once on the steep ice the belays were set with pickets punched through the ice layer. There were two shrund crossings on the route (topo pic #2) and some signs of avalanche activity. Descent via Coleman-Deming route.

References:
"Cascade Alpine Guide" Vol. 3 (Rainy Pass to Fraser River), Fred Beckey
"Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes", Jeff Smoot

For additional info and updated route conditions check cascadeclimbers.com

Protection

4 snow pickets, 5 ice screws, long runners, pair of ice tools/climber
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Ice plates over wet snow? Yipes, that sounds pretty scary.

I once tried to do this route in a day from the car, but when we were making the long trek across the Coleman Glacier after sunrise, puffy clouds were already gathering. Then we started hearing a mysterious buzzing sound from our packs. After taking them off we suddenly realized it was our crampons trying to tell us we were about to be struck by lightning. Without hesitation we put our packs back on and began running back down the glacier, we never did see any lightning. However the experience was so unnerving we just kept going down. I've never seen crampons behave so strangely.

Then a year or so later my friend Ian Kraabel was killed along with one of his clients while guiding on this route, or one nearby on the N Face. The ice cliff avalanched and buried them in a crevasse. I've never wanted to go back. Thanks for posting all the photos! Dec 4, 2006
Kris Gorny

  AI4 Steep Snow
Kris Gorny    
  AI4 Steep Snow
Sorry about your friend, George. When we climbed it the air was pretty warm and we were little nervous on the upper slopes. Getting off the face was a big relief. I do think the guidebooks should perhaps have references to route accident statistics. Descriptions for Liberty Ridge, Coleman, or Ptarmigan focus mostly on route descriptions and may sound like these are just some beautiful relaxed climbs. Beautiful for sure. Relaxed -- not so much. I think accident statistics would be very revealing for the type and severity of potential objective dangers on a given route, and could alert climbers during planning and actual climbing. Any idea where these can be found? American Alpine Journal? Feb 14, 2007
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Accidents in North American Mountaineering (put out yearly at the same time as the AAJ) has accident statistics, but over the entire country by cause, not by route. Feb 27, 2007
George, in 1990 on the Crystal Ridge boundary of Mount Rainier Park my ice axe did that very same thing, buzzing up a storm but there WAS lightning Happening all the way from Mount Adams/Pah-to to Glacier Peak! It was quite unnerving as you say! I hunkered down in the nearest lift house (chair 6 of Crystal Mtn ski resort) just below the ridge, and waited for at least an hour till the lightning stopped.

Also, interestingly, I found this series of comments when I googled Ian Kraabel, so it is interesting I found a friend of his...see, my best friend died with him in that crevasse. Steven John Raschick was my big brother and I miss him terribly. I was there too, between Ian and Steve on the rope. I now see the ice avalanche as my mountain maiden who took lives, but also gave them back. This helps me cope with the loss.

As Ive written, based on a stanza of Coleridge' "Rime of the Ancient Mariner":

"My grips were shed,
My hooves were free
My Shadow yellow as gold.
My skin is white, an Odyssey, your moonlight mountain maiden, God's Breath, is Me,
Who warms you from the cold."

My friend Kurt was also there the 4th man on the rope. He was carried down the mountain and 75 feet down that same crevasse. His section of rope led up into the ice debris where Ian and Steve were but there was no way to save them. They were crushed and the ice and snow mix set like quick set concrete. The reason I lived was that I was carried over the crevasse.

Well, do you climb still? I dont as much anymore, but I do want to do Rainier/Tahoma from the west and also Gannett Peak in WY again, before I die. That would be my fourth summit of Rainier and 3rd on Gannett.

All the Best, Cheers to Life! Nov 8, 2013
Chris C.
Seattle, WA
 
Chris C.   Seattle, WA
 
Climbed this August 2017 - very cool climb. Because it is a relatively uncommonly climbed route, I figured I would post my full account of it:
gethighonaltitude.com/2017/… Feb 20, 2018

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