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Routes in Mt. Baker
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Boulder-Park Cleaver Mod. Snow |
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Cockscomb Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b AI2-3 PG13 |
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Coleman Headwall AI4 Steep Snow |
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Coleman Ski Descent Easy Snow PG13 |
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Coleman/Deming Glacier Mod. Snow |
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Easton Glacier Easy Snow |
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North Ridge WI3 Steep Snow |
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Park Glacier Mod. Snow |
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Squak Glacier Easy Snow |
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| Type: | Ice, Snow, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), Grade IV |
| FA: | Ed Cooper, Phil Bartow, Donald Grimlund, and David Nicholson, August 1957 |
| Page Views: | 16,592 total · 78/month |
| Shared By: | Kris Gorny on Dec 4, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
The route climbs the northwest side of Mt. Baker and is delineated by the Roman Nose on the climber's right and serac walls on the left. We climbed it in early May 2006 and the route then had two distinct sections: the lower, which was mostly firm steep snow (up to 50 degrees) and the upper, which was 800 feet of 60-degree ice (AI4, WI3) with little reliable pro. The ice slabs on the upper section formed a giant plate, about an inch thick, covering the wet snow underneath. It was "fun" to climb but the overall stability of the ice was questionable. We simul-climbed the lower section and pitched it out on the upper. Just below the second rock band (topo pic #2) the belays were set with some ice screws. Once on the steep ice the belays were set with pickets punched through the ice layer. There were two shrund crossings on the route (topo pic #2) and some signs of avalanche activity. Descent via Coleman-Deming route.
References:
"Cascade Alpine Guide" Vol. 3 (Rainy Pass to Fraser River), Fred Beckey
"Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes", Jeff Smoot
For additional info and updated route conditions check cascadeclimbers.com
References:
"Cascade Alpine Guide" Vol. 3 (Rainy Pass to Fraser River), Fred Beckey
"Climbing the Cascade Volcanoes", Jeff Smoot
For additional info and updated route conditions check cascadeclimbers.com
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