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Routes in Motherlode Rock - West Face

Funkadelia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Golden Showers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Good Day for a Hangin' S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Highgrader S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Arm of The Law S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mighty Quinn S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Panning for Gold S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Reach for the Sky S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stake Your Claim S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Whiskeroo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Graham Doe and Brent Webster, 1994
Page Views: 1,911 total, 14/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Dec 3, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

In my opinion one of the best 5.10s at HVP. An excellent athletic exercise on steep rock with good flakes. There's a tricky little bit at about half-height, but save some strength for the crux finishing moves.

Location

Middle of the face of the left formation and between Long Arm of The Law and Stake Your Claim.

Protection

Being an early route a tad more runout than usual; 5 bolts, sport anchor.
Phil Esra  
 
Fun, moderate climbing with good rests. Sep 8, 2015
johnnydanger
California
  5.10c
johnnydanger   California
  5.10c
Awesome climb for the area. Solid for the grade, especially clipping the anchors. Would be a classic, but the rock quality isn't the best. A must-do for the area. Oct 7, 2013
Coon  
Agree that its one of the better 10's at HVP. Hard to onsite if you dont know about the blind jug above the anchors. I didnt see it after peeking over 4 times and im 6'1". Jul 14, 2013
Lluis Penalver-Aguila
Cambridge, Massachusetts
 
Lluis Penalver-Aguila   Cambridge, Massachusetts
 
The jug above the anchors is a blind hold for shorter climbers. Use the side pull to the right of the anchors as an intermediary before going up for the jug. Aug 22, 2010
Kortopates Kortopates  
  5.10c
Entirely agree the crux of this climb is getting yours hands over the lip to clip the anchors. Aug 9, 2010
C Miller
CA
  5.10c
C Miller   CA  
  5.10c
Bucket Loader was the name given in the Oso Grande guidebook due to the name and FA being unknown at the time.

Clipping the anchors off the hidden jug behind the anchors is around 5.10c but clipping the anchors from below without actually going over the bulge is more like 5.10a. Jul 5, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
When I climbed this in the mid 90's I seem to remember it being called "Bucket Loader" - any history on this Chris M? Jul 4, 2009