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Routes in Failsafe Wall

Controversial Insert T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crumb Donut S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Drill Rig S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flailsafe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hitchhiker's guide to the Gorge S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Kohl, Puppo, Rousek 1994
Page Views: 319 total, 2/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Nov 30, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

An archetypical ORG route featuring continuous vertical crimping. There is a thin technical crux past the 2nd bolt, then a rest, then some sustained 5.10 and a secondary crux getting to the anchors -- if you blow the last moves, scream loudly if you want your belayer to hear you.

Location

On the left/upstream sector of Failsafe. The middle of three routes on the west facing wall.

Protection

12 bolts

Photos

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What a climb! Gotta be in my top 10 for the Gorge that I have done. David makes it sound much easier than I found it. First, it is thin and hard to the first bolt, not much for the feet. I was barely able to commit, kept thinking about my ankles. Stick clip next time. Great hold to clip from though. I found the crux getting to the 2nd bolt. Getting to the 3rd was hard as well. 4th and 5th bolts were more in the 5.10 range. Above the ledge was another 5.11 move with the ledge in the back of my mind. After that continuous 5.10 until the last moves to the anchor that were 5.11 for sure. Mar 12, 2014