Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,428 total · 17/month
Shared By: Stephen Nance on Nov 30, 2006
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Crux is last roof. Three roofs in total. PG 13 rating only because of the start. The finishing bolt is way off to the left; better to just skip it.

Location

On the very right side of the crag. 3 roofs; start standing on a slopy slab.

Protection

Draws

Photos

Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10c PG13
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10c PG13
There really should be anchors on this route, so if you are looking to top rope it sling the big boulder on top. Jan 4, 2007
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
 
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
 
A cam placement before the first bolt is possible on the left in a square hole - I think red TCU, but not sure. It saved me from decking and going down the hill once, when I slipped under the first bolt. Edited 6/19/07 to reflect Dan's cam size. Jan 31, 2007
Daniel S
Oklahoma City
  5.10c
Daniel S   Oklahoma City
  5.10c
Actually, you need a one inch cam, (a red # 4 Metolius TCU works great)! Jun 18, 2007
Adam Peters
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10c PG13
Adam Peters   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.10c PG13
As the description says, the finishing bolt is to the left quite a ways, in fact, I have done this route several times, but it wasn't until about my 5th or 6th time that someone finally pointed out that there was actually a bolt protecting the last moves. I always thought that it was just a little bit runout, so don't worry about skipping that lat bolt, it is not bad at all. Jan 11, 2008
Brent Butcher
  5.10c
Brent Butcher  
  5.10c
Sustained .10c the whole way. when past the third roof, exit left for sustained .10 finish. Right exit is .11a finish. Wrap the boulder at the top for anchor. Fun climb. Feb 19, 2011
Brent Butcher
  5.10c
Brent Butcher  
  5.10c
I don't understand the PG13 rating for this route. The beginning move is not hard and you can place a cam before the first bolt. Apr 11, 2014
Behave
Oklahoma City, OK
Behave   Oklahoma City, OK
Any idea who had the first ascent on this? Jul 3, 2015
David Graham
Dallas
 
David Graham   Dallas
 
For those interested, I found a #.75 BD camalot worked great. A #1 would work as well but you can get the .75 a little deeper. Feb 13, 2017