Type: Trad, 100 ft, Grade II
FA: Johnny Bissel, 1935
Page Views: 1,280 total · 9/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 29, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

9 Opinions

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This classic adventure route makes for an excellent solo. The route begins on the South (or Smith Rock) side of the tower with a short boulder problem right off the deck to surmount the large sloping ramp that is the base of Squaw Rock. There are numerous places that you can scramble on to this ramp, so pick a spot that inspires you. Once on the ramp, head up (to the right or north), and begin spiraling around the tower in a counter-clockwise fashion. The difficulty is never greater than third class. Enjoy the views and reverse the route.


Begins on the S side of Squaw Rock, the most prominent formation on Indian Ridge.




David Wade  
Probably true that the climbing is all 4th class, but there are a few spots for decent pro, and I was glad to have a rope to get down with. Apr 2, 2009
Karl Helser
Portland, Oregon
Karl Helser   Portland, Oregon
Yes, and I was glad to see anchor's on the summit, since the old Smith book says there are no anchor's...I can hear Watts now..."I don't need no stink'n anchor's"... Jan 13, 2012
Climbed this a couple of days ago. We took the route to it described in Watts. The hardest part is definitely the section just off the ground. Pay attention to the descent if climbing ropeless. There is some loose rock, but there are enough cracks to enable some small to medium pro along the spiral. There is no need to go to where the other routes meet at the place shown in the guidebook, an easy bay provides a way to the top just before rounding the corner to the SW. The hike in is longer than an hour and a half. We took over two hours, but we are old.

Nov 9, 2014
Daire Maguire
Calgary, Alberta
Daire Maguire   Calgary, Alberta
Like Watts says the first 5 meters off the ground is tricky, not bad on the way up but harder on the way down if your not used to downclimbing. The climbing is bulgy so it can be hard to find the feet on the downclimb...if your rapping off the anchor at the top you'll need two ropes to reach all the way to the base Apr 6, 2016
Lane Mathis
Denver, CO
Lane Mathis   Denver, CO
A nest pair of Peregrine were out for blood this summer. I'm not sure if birds nest here often, but it's something to be mindful of during the raptor closures for the park. Sep 3, 2017