PRINT: Rock Climb Peawabe Spiral, Smith Rock

Peawabe Spiral

5.1 X, Trad, 100 ft (30 m), Grade II,

Avg: 3.2 from 11 votes
FA: Johnny Bissel, 1935
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (ww) Indian Ridge

Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:

ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

This classic adventure route makes for an excellent solo. The route begins on the South (or Smith Rock) side of the tower with a short boulder problem right off the deck to surmount the large sloping ramp that is the base of Peawabe Rock. There are numerous places that you can scramble on to this ramp, so pick a spot that inspires you. Once on the ramp, head up (to the right or north), and begin spiraling around the tower in a counter-clockwise fashion. The difficulty is never greater than third class. Enjoy the views and reverse the route.

Location

Begins on the S side of Peawabe (Squ**) Rock, the most prominent formation on Indian Ridge.

Protection

None.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Northeast side of Peawabe Rock

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

David Wade

Probably true that the climbing is all 4th class, but there are a few spots for decent pro, and I was glad to have a rope to get down with. Apr 2, 2009

Karl Helser
Portland, Oregon

Yes, and I was glad to see anchor's on the summit, since the old Smith book says there are no anchor's...I can hear Watts now..."I don't need no stink'n anchor's"... Jan 13, 2012

loose overhang 2000

Climbed this a couple of days ago. We took the route to it described in Watts. The hardest part is definitely the section just off the ground. Pay attention to the descent if climbing ropeless. There is some loose rock, but there are enough cracks to enable some small to medium pro along the spiral. There is no need to go to where the other routes meet at the place shown in the guidebook, an easy bay provides a way to the top just before rounding the corner to the SW. The hike in is longer than an hour and a half. We took over two hours, but we are old.

Nov 9, 2014

Daire Maguire
Calgary, Alberta

Like Watts says the first 5 meters off the ground is tricky, not bad on the way up but harder on the way down if your not used to downclimbing. The climbing is bulgy so it can be hard to find the feet on the downclimb...if your rapping off the anchor at the top you'll need two ropes to reach all the way to the base Apr 6, 2016

Lane Mathis
Denver, CO

A nest pair of Peregrine were out for blood this summer. I'm not sure if birds nest here often, but it's something to be mindful of during the raptor closures for the park. Sep 3, 2017

Ryan Silagy
Portland, OR

5.5 X

A must do for any Smith veteran. Such a cool climb to tick off, with the best a view of the whole central Oregon area. I solo’d the west side of the pinnacle. Apr 25, 2019