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Routes in (tt) Mendenhall Ridge

Poplar, South Chimney, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sapling, Tilted Slab, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
Type: Trad, 50 ft, Grade II
FA: Zimmermans, 1952
Page Views: 398 total, 3/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 29, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Private Property Details

Description

This is not at all classsic, but if you've hiked all the way out here to climb the Poplar (as you should) you might as well tick this one off too. You certainly don't want to have to hike back out here again when you decide your life goals include ticking all of the Smith Rock 5.3s.

The rock on this route is downright bad, so take your time and choose holds wisely.

Location

This route begins on the uphill side of the Sapling, which is the squat tower immediately down the ridge from the Poplar. Ascend the slab, then circle around on the big ledge to the down-hill side of the summit tower and scramble up.

Protection

There is no gear. You will more or less be soloing. You could probably rig something at the base of the summit tower, but I doubt it would do much good in a fall. After downclimbing the summit pinnacle it's possible to rap the tilted slab.

Photos

Karl Helser
Portland, Oregon
 
Karl Helser   Portland, Oregon
 
Tagged The Sapling last Saturday 10/20/12 after Squaw Rock. The Sapling has two well placed hangers below the tilted slab...and a set of anchors on the tilted slab to rap off of. The scramble around and up to the summit is un protected and doesn't need to be. I installed a new chunk of 1" webbing and used the existing (thin) rap ring. Oct 24, 2012