Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Where Lizards Go to Die

5.10a, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.7 from 93 votes
FA: Heidi Chapin 2002
Tennessee > Tennessee Wall > T-Wall West

Description

Located a short distance to the left of the waterfall where the main trail meets the cliff at the right end of a large cave/alcove. Climb up junky rock and up the right side of a large block. Continue up the blocky face and roof system to a final roof below a big, left-facing corner (this corner is a good way to identify the route -- it begins about 50' off the deck). The crux is pulling this roof up and into the corner. Follow the corner and face left of the corner up to bolted anchors out right below the high roof.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mason Mayer after pulling the roof. Onsight on a shady day
[Hide Photo] Mason Mayer after pulling the roof. Onsight on a shady day
The no hands rest under the roof
[Hide Photo] The no hands rest under the roof
How to take a pic and make a 10 look like a 12 for your friends
[Hide Photo] How to take a pic and make a 10 look like a 12 for your friends
Hang loose baby!
[Hide Photo] Hang loose baby!
Chilling out in the body slot rest
[Hide Photo] Chilling out in the body slot rest
Hueco marks the spot. This huge hueco is the starting point for the climb.
[Hide Photo] Hueco marks the spot. This huge hueco is the starting point for the climb.
Pulling the last roof on Lizards. T Wall, TN
[Hide Photo] Pulling the last roof on Lizards. T Wall, TN
Lizard Roof
[Hide Photo] Lizard Roof
Looking at what lizards has in store
[Hide Photo] Looking at what lizards has in store
One of the amazing roofs
[Hide Photo] One of the amazing roofs

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rob Dillon
Tamarisk Clearing
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Look for a large hueco at ground level to start the route. Anchors are hidden.

.10a at Red Rocks, maybe, but 5.9 seems to be the consensus around here.

This is a good one! Dec 15, 2006
Jeff Mekolites
Atlanta, GA
 
[Hide Comment] Great route with a super cool rest before the crux...you can practically squeeze both legs in for a no hands rest...check out the river behind you...say hi to your belayer...then fire it! Mar 20, 2007
yevquest
Southeast,US
[Hide Comment] Super fun jug haulin'. Improbably easy given the angle. Stays dry in a decent rain. Feb 9, 2009
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Way more rests than it would appear from the ground and the gear is great. Dec 7, 2012
DennisL
Bishop, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Absolutely amazing - your sport-climbing buddies will love you for putting this one up! If you're a 5.9 leader at T-Wall, don't be intimidated by the guidebook rating - you can do it! Watch the rope-drag and milk the rests. Mar 12, 2014
Zeb
Athens, GA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Amazing climb, as yevquest said "improbably easy given the angle". Bring a single pink tricam for after the final roof. Oct 19, 2020
Tim Wheatley
Chattanooga, TN
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] An excellent climb! If you don't want terrible rope drag make sure to extend every piece below the roof.
Beta Video: youtu.be/ENxnJ1HytiM Nov 22, 2021
Tim Wheatley
Chattanooga, TN
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Is there a possible second pitch to this climb? Once at the anchors could you traverse left or right and finish straight up? or even go straight out over the roof? Nov 23, 2021
Benton Hodges
Jackson, WY
 
[Hide Comment] Improbable is a fantastic way to describe this route. Keep your head on straight and realize it truly goes at the grade. See how many unique-never-done-this-before-on-a-climb rests you can find. I must be a lizard, ‘cause I died and went to sandstone heaven. Nov 18, 2023