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The Urge

5.12d, Sport, 75 ft,  Avg: 4 from 1 vote
FA: Jeff Frizzel
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (zz) Upper Gorge

Description

This is another basalt ultra-classic that mysteriously receives a sandbag split-grade in the guidebook. As if there were any doubt this was at least 12d! Unless you're a honed basalt master, this will probably feel like 5.13. Perhaps the sandbag is due to the fact that the route is relatively easy most of the way, with a sinister double crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts.

Location

Red Columns, the next "outy" left of Big Tuna

Protection

Bolts. This route is the most runout in the Upper Gorge. Consider TR rehearsal, or hanging double-length slings off the 4th and 5th bolts so you can clip before executing the cruxes.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Do you have an urge to climb this?
[Hide Photo] Do you have an urge to climb this?
Resting up below the crux section of The Urge
[Hide Photo] Resting up below the crux section of The Urge
Mid-way through the dyno, which is the second crux.  After a good shake here, a mantle leads to a great reat and fun 5.11 climbing to the chains.  I used long slings on the two bolts in the crux to reduce the runouts.  This might be lame, use your own judgement, but keep in mind the FA likely dialed it on TR before leading it.
[Hide Photo] Mid-way through the dyno, which is the second crux. After a good shake here, a mantle leads to a great reat and fun 5.11 climbing to the chains. I used long slings on the two bolts in the crux to…
Starting up the beautiful double-arete column of The Urge.
[Hide Photo] Starting up the beautiful double-arete column of The Urge.