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Routes in (zz) Upper Gorge

Approach Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Big Tuna S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Bushwhacker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Celibate Wives S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Colorsplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conflicted Goddess S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E type Jag S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Feminazis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Land of the Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mojomatic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Natural Art S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Naxis S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seep, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shark Infested Waters S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sign Of The Priest, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unique Monique S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Up Country S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Urge, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jeff Frizzel
Page Views: 1,468 total, 11/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 28, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This is another basalt ultra-classic that mysteriously receives a sandbag split-grade in the guidebook. As if there were any doubt this was at least 12d! Unless you're a honed basalt master, this will probably feel like 5.13. Perhaps the sandbag is due to the fact that the route is relatively easy most of the way, with a sinister double crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts.

Location

Red Columns, the next "outy" left of Big Tuna

Protection

Bolts. This route is the most runout in the Upper Gorge. Consider TR rehearsal, or hanging double-length slings off the 4th and 5th bolts so you can clip before executing the cruxes.

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