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Routes in Ginger's Face

As the Wind Blows T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Caterpillar, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chocolate Decadence T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ginger's Crack T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gun for the Sun T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Guns for Nuns TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Mary Ann or Ginger? TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Through the Looking Glass T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,165 total, 9/month
Shared By: Brian in SLC on Nov 28, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Corner crack, somewhat flared and mealy rock. A bit spicy and listed in the guide as a 5.7. Would not be a route for a fledgling 5.7 leader.

Location

Obvious left-facing corner to the right of the main Ginger's Face.

Protection

Standard rack. Old 1/4" bolt/Leeper hanger mid way up route (good candidate for replacement or removal). Top out then down climb horizontal crack to sling anchor on Through the Looking Glass.

Photos

The superfluous rusty bolt has beeen removed (due to the fact that there is a bomber pro placement in the crack right next to it) Jan 22, 2015
Eric T.
St. Augustine, Florida
 
Eric T.   St. Augustine, Florida
 
I agree. I am a fairly new leader and thought this route to be easier than other 5.7's such as Mr. Misty Kiss or Double Cross. It is a good line and there is plenty of pro. I wish I had known about that sling anchor instead of downclimbing the backside. Mar 21, 2011
John Hegyes
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Hegyes   Las Vegas, NV
 
Why is this listed as PG-13? There is plenty of pro on this route. Mar 9, 2007
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.8
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
  5.8
Probably the most striking route in the area. Worth doing for its position, exposure and length. An interesting move or two midway up the crack make it seem more like a 5.8 than a 5.7. It is not necessary to clip the old bolt as there are plenty of other protection opportunities. This route can be well protected with a standard rack. Jan 11, 2007