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Routes in (zz) Upper Gorge

Approach Gully T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Big Tuna S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Bushwhacker S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Celibate Wives S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Colorsplash T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Conflicted Goddess S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
E type Jag S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Feminazis S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Land of the Lost T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mojomatic S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Natural Art S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Naxis S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Seep, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shark Infested Waters S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sign Of The Priest, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unique Monique S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Up Country S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Urge, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jeff Frizzel
Page Views: 1,534 total, 11/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 28, 2006
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

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Description

This is the big prize in the Upper Gorge. If there is a harder route on a basalt column anywhere in the world, I'd like to see it.

This route is the ultimate in a unique genre of double-arete column climbing, or "Outies" (vs. "Innies") as Jeff Frizzel sometimes called them. If you're interested in achieving an ascent of this route, I recommend a gradual apprenticeship through the bolted columns of the Lower Gorge (routes such as Try to Be Hip & Catalayst) then working through the "outies" of the Upper (Mojomatic, Shark Infested, The Urge, Feminazis).

This route is sharp, thin and ultra technical. The physical crux is getting to the 4th bolt, but the upper column is 12+ in its own right, without any significant rest. As far as is known, this route has seen only 3 ascents.

Location

This route is in the Red Columns section of the Upper Gorge. The Red Columns are the furthest section of cliff downstream. This route can be easily identified as one of only a couple "outies" on this section of cliff. The rock has a unique maroon hue to it, and there is an obviously glued hold (aka "the secret agent") around the 2nd bolt.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
 
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
 
This route is listed at 13b in the original Watts guide. However, word on the street is that it will be 13c in the new edition. The FA-ist never really repeated routes, so he had no idea what the grade scale was when he recommended the grade of 13b. He just knew Big Tuna was harder than everything else in the Upper Gorge. The first person to repeat the route suggested the higher grade. Big Tuna is slightly harder than Rude Boys, and since folks (most notably notorious sandbagger Bill Ramsey) often say, "Rude Boys is the hardest 13b you'll ever do..." then it must logically follow that any route harder than Rude Boys is 13c. Anyway, if you want to down-rate it, you have to climb it first! Nov 28, 2006