Hot Licks and Rhetoric
Avg: 4 from 1 vote
Routes in Purple Valley
|5.11 Jimmy and Spike Go Craggin' S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|A Way of Life S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Big Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Burden of Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Captain One Eye S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Coffee Talk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Come In Your Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Delusions of Grandeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Electric Cowboy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Flaring Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Grunt T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Hot Licks and Rhetoric T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Into the Purple Valley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|It Ain't Easy Bein Squeezy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Love Shack, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Pebbly Poo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Pleasant Surprise T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Shish-kebab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X|
|Social Butterfly T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||M Hackworth, T. Andriakos, R. Martin, 1986|
|Page Views:||1,141 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 28, 2006|
|Admins:||saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike|
DescriptionA great climb that deserves more attention. This is one of the better lines at the cliff, and one of the longest if you consider any one of the 3 climbs you have to do just to get to the base of it as part of the route.
Start with "Grunt" for the most consistent start and belay at the base of this line on the ledge if you protected just before the traverse. If you did not protect just before the traverse and put a monster-long sling on your last piece and intend to do the same with your next, you may simply continue...
Climb up the bright orange corner on the available face holds and flake, protecting when possible and as often as possible to account for the possibility of pulling some gear. Continue to a ledge with a belay tree and belay. Alternately, continue to the top over an unprotected roof.
The most recent book documents the FA of the alternate finish to be by Tom Kwasny. Although it is presently undocumented, I believe that his partner on that affair was Eric Pinkston.
LocationFrom the approach trail, go left of the first rock you intercept, a huge free-standing spire. Just left of this you will see a mixed (some bolts) route on the vertical flat face of a rounded arete. This face is the route "Till The Cows Come Home." Just left of that route there is a crack in a huge, left-facing corner with a small roof above mid-height and a wide crack above that. This is the route "Grunt." Up and left of Grunt, perhaps 70' off of the ground is a second corner that can be reached via Grunt (most consistent option at 5.8 trad), Tour De Hooks (10d) or Pleasant Surprise (11a).
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