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Routes in Purple Valley

5.11 Jimmy and Spike Go Craggin' S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
A Way of Life S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Big Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Burden of Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Captain One Eye S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coffee Talk S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Come In Your Lycra S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Delusions of Grandeur S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Electric Cowboy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flaring Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grunt T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hot Licks and Rhetoric T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Into the Purple Valley T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
It Ain't Easy Bein Squeezy T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Love Shack, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pebbly Poo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Pleasant Surprise T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Shish-kebab T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Social Butterfly T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: M. Hackworth, B. Wade, 1986
Page Views: 557 total, 4/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

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Description

A good obtuse corner with a jamcrack. Perhaps the name comes from the precept that if you have a lack of jamming skills, there is always the layback, or perhaps for a awkward slot that must be passed just before the wide section up top.

For the best line, or a second pitch, step left on awkward moves from the first good ledge and join the route "Hot Licks and Rhetoric" up the orange corner just left.

Location

From the approach trail, go left of the first rock you intercept, a huge free-standing spire. Just left of this you will see a mixed (some bolts) route on the vertical flat face of a rounded arete. This face is the route "Till The Cows Come Home." Just left of that route there is a crack in a huge, left-facing corner with a small roof above mid-height and a wide crack above that. This is the route "Grunt."

Protection

A standard rack with a wide piece to finish the top.

Photos

Andrew R.
Linden, VA
 
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
 
Top it out for some great views of Purple Valley. Dec 1, 2009