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Zambezi Plunge

5.8, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 55 votes
FA: J. Wilburn, 1987
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Pebble Beach
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

Description

Climb up a jamcrack in a small corner formed by a strange inset tower for 10 meters to reach a ledge (5.8) and then up a wide crack and a right-facing corner for 6 meters more to reach the bolted anchor for JuJu.

Location

In the center of this crag lies "The Trash Compactor" a large, rectangular rockhouse with a slab at the back and a huge roof above. on the left side of that slab there is an O.W. crack that goes up and then left at the top. The ofwidth splits a section of the arete off, forming a strange inset 10 meters tall. The OW crack on the slab on it's right side is posted under the assumed name "Sunburn." The bolted arete is called JuJu, and the crack around the left side is "Zambezi Plunge."

Protection

A standard rack of cams and a big piece for the top if desired. Belay and lower from the bolted anchors on JuJu.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

lily...
[Hide Photo] lily...
hale...
[Hide Photo] hale...
High on Zambezi Plunge
[Hide Photo] High on Zambezi Plunge
great route
[Hide Photo] great route

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

DannyUncanny
Vancouver
[Hide Comment] Climbing the wide 2nd half of the route is pretty much an x rating without a number 6. I chickened out and went onto the bolts on the face. Nov 5, 2012
kevin neville
Oconomowoc WI
[Hide Comment] Even with a #6, the highest you can set it is about 10 feet off the ledge, near the transition from steep to lower-angle squeeze chimney. We backed off and did an awkward rap from the Scabies anchor. There is also a sling+biner on the small tree; but it's smaller than we wanted to trust. Nov 2, 2015
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] Not sure how much the upper section would effect the rating...just didn't look fun...or protectable without BigBros. As it was, I just did the nice handcrack to the ledge. The small tree there has a sling with a rap ring on it that's pretty new. Fun 5.8 with great gear. Nov 27, 2017
Douglas Kempthorne
Cincinnati, OH
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] The new black diamond #7 protects the upper crack Sep 20, 2020
Douglas Kempthorne
Cincinnati, OH
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] As of Nov 2020, there are freshly installed anchors on the ledge above the crack before the off-width... Probably 5.7 or so to these. Nov 9, 2020
Charles D
Nashville, TN
5.8-
[Hide Comment] The offwidth past the ledge didnt seem to be worth the weight of hauling out multiple big cams. With the new anchor bolts on the ledge, the handcrack by itself makes a great route that probably goes around 5.8- Mar 28, 2021