Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: J. Wilburn, 1987
Page Views: 2,147 total · 15/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Description

Climb up a jamcrack in a small corner formed by a strange inset tower for 10 meters to reach a ledge (5.8) and then up a wide crack and a right-facing corner for 6 meters more to reach the bolted anchor for JuJu.

Location

In the center of this crag lies "The Trash Compactor" a large, rectangular rockhouse with a slab at the back and a huge roof above. on the left side of that slab there is an O.W. crack that goes up and then left at the top. The ofwidth splits a section of the arete off, forming a strange inset 10 meters tall. The OW crack on the slab on it's right side is posted under the assumed name "Sunburn." The bolted arete is called JuJu, and the crack around the left side is "Zambezi Plunge."

Protection

A standard rack of cams and a big piece for the top if desired. Belay and lower from the bolted anchors on JuJu.

Photos

DannyUncanny
Vancouver
DannyUncanny   Vancouver
Climbing the wide 2nd half of the route is pretty much an x rating without a number 6. I chickened out and went onto the bolts on the face. Nov 5, 2012
kevin neville
Oconomowoc WI
kevin neville   Oconomowoc WI
Even with a #6, the highest you can set it is about 10 feet off the ledge, near the transition from steep to lower-angle squeeze chimney. We backed off and did an awkward rap from the Scabies anchor. There is also a sling+biner on the small tree; but it's smaller than we wanted to trust. Nov 2, 2015
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8-
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8-
Not sure how much the upper section would effect the rating...just didn't look fun...or protectable without BigBros. As it was, I just did the nice handcrack to the ledge. The small tree there has a sling with a rap ring on it that's pretty new. Fun 5.8 with great gear. Nov 27, 2017