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Routes in Middle Small Wall

Devine Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Handjob T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Investigator T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lactic Acid T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Layback Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marmalde T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quest, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: E. Lecroix, T. Seibert, 1980
Page Views: 2,845 total, 21/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 27, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


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Description

A great climb on great jams with solid rock and pro most of the way. A good warm up for some of the harder lines in the area.
Climb the obvious hand and fist crack, passing a roof at mid height (crux) and continue to a big ledge and belay.
To descend, rap from a set of bolted anchors which have replaced the fixed slings up top.

Location

From the main approach trail, turn left and go under a large, wide roof, which houses the hard routes, Which Way is Up (10d) and Basecamp (11b). Continue past the roof past a radical looking chimney Hidey-Ho (5.10) and perhaps 70 feet further, passing Investigator (5.7) and Lactic Acid (5.9) to reach a flat wall split left-to-right by an obvious hand and fist crack and top-to-bottom by a small roof. The obvious crack is Handjob, a stout 5.9.

Protection

A standard light rack with some hand and fist sized cams.

Photos

Stefano Prezioso
Denver, CO
 
Stefano Prezioso   Denver, CO
 
I placed everything from a .4 Camalot to a 4 Camalot on this climb. A 5 could have been placed, but isn't needed. If you want to sew it up, here's what I brought.

1 each BD 0.3 - 0.75
2 each BD 1 and 4
3 each BD 2 and 3

Another 3 would have been good, and I didn't place the .3, otherwise everything else got used. Trim down with your own judgement. Aug 24, 2012